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#iwcwatches #ingenieur #schaffhausen @iwcwatches The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur was originally launched in 1955 as the brands first antimagnetic wristwatch for civilian use. However, its name is most frequently associated with renowned Geneva watch designer Gérald Genta, who was tasked with re-designing it in the 1970s. With the Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832, Genta detailed his artistic vision of a stainless steel luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Introduced last year, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 reflects the bold aesthetic codes of Genta’s Ingenieur design. It is distinguished by the characteristic bezel with five functional screws, the integrated bracelet and the special dial pattern. After initially presenting an Ingenieur Automatic 40 in titanium and three stainless steel versions with a black, a silver-plated and an aqua dial, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now adds a new dial colour to the collection. The IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 (Ref. IW328907) features a case, bezel and integrated H-link bracelet with butterfly folding clasp made of stainless steel. The ergonomics of the case and bracelet have been carefully re-engineered and improved down to the smallest detail. The 40-millimetre case size and the middle-link attachment ensure excellent wearability, even on a more slender wrist. The characteristic round bezel is screwed onto the case ring with five polygonal screws. The components of the case and the bracelet are elaborately finished with a combination of polished and satin-finished surfaces. This new IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 impresses with its striking blue dial. The characteristic “grid” structure, consisting of small lines and squares, is stamped into the soft iron base using high pressure. Afterwards, the blue colour is applied with a PVD-coating. The rhodium- plated baton hands and the applied metal marker are all filled with Super-LumiNova® luminescent mass to ensure perfect legibility in all lighting conditions. The watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre, a self-winding automatic movement with an efficient double pawl winding system. Converting the movements on the wearer’s arm into potential energy for the mainspring, it reliably builds up a power reserve of 120 hours. In keeping with the technical heritage of the Ingenieur, a soft-iron inner case shields the movement from the effects of magnetic fields on the watch’s rate. #geraldgenta #wherethewatchesarethestars
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IWC Schaffhausen INGENIEUR. Blue Dial, Adjustable Folding-Clasp... The Best is Saved for Last.

December 2, 2024 9:00 am

#bovet #worldtimer #daylightsavingtime @Bovet1822 The BOVET Récital 28 Prowess 1 is a result of over five years of development, featuring meticulous hand-finishing, hand-engraved bridges, and a limited production of only eight timepieces per year in 18 carat Red Gold, 950 Platinum, and Grade 5 Titanium. The BOVET Récital 28 Prowess represents a significant leap in solving terrestrial timekeeping problems, ensuring accuracy in global timekeeping. The World Time system The 24 rollers around the central dial each have four positions, all controlled through the crown – UTC, AST (American Summer Time), EAS (Europe and America Summer Time), and EWT (European Winter Time). Pushing the crown rotates each individual cylinder 90 degrees, so every time zone can be individually set for each of the four time periods of the year. This has never been possible with a world time timepiece ever before. The Tourbillon The movement powering the Récital 28 Prowess 1 is brand new, using BOVET’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon as a base. The tourbillon has been expanded – the escapement is completely on one side of the center fixation point, with the cage carrying the balance wheel and BOVET’s in-house balance spring on the other side, making it even more transparent and mesmerizing than before. The redesigned cage is the lightest BOVET has ever used, as well (62 components, with 39 being completely new), with a total weight of 0.35 grams). The Récital 28 Prowess 1 is housed in a brand-new size for BOVET’s trademarked Writing Desk case (46.30mm) to allow the tourbillon, which is in the 12 o’clock position, enough space at the widest part of the case. The Perpetual Calendar The date, leap year indication, and the month are on rollers, so when they get to the last day and month respectively, the date rolls back like a slot machine, with a special dampening system to stop it gently, while the other two roll forward. To safeguard this complicated movement, a patented Function Isolator was developed so that the perpetual calendar cannot be corrected during the “safety zone,” when the indications are in the process of changing. One more reason to stay up until midnight at the end of the month and especially at the end of the year to watch all the rollers move. On the back of the timepiece, BOVET has revealed the inner workings of the perpetual calendar mechanism for the first time ever, and it is a visual treat indeed. The Decoration and Finishing Each of the 744 components are hand-finished, the plate is decorated with perlage and Cotes de Geneve, and the bridges are hand-engraved as well. Of particular attention is the beveling of the major structures of the movement — the method used is called angle rentrant. A corner is rentrant when two chamfers meet on the inside. The intersection must be clean, with a single line formed at the meeting point. This type of corner is the most difficult to produce, and the sharper the point, the more difficult it is. It requires expert hands — at present, there is no machine capable of producing it. Case Type: Dimier "Writing Desk" case Diameter: 46.3mm diameter, 17.85mm thickness Material: 18K Red Gold/Platinum/Polished Grade 5 Titanium Water resistance: 30m Movement Caliber: R28-70-00X Type: High-watchmaking hand-wound manufacture movement Components: 744 Number of Jewels: 51 Frequency: 18.000 A/h (= 2.5Hz) Power reserve: 10 days Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds on the flying tourbillon; World time on rollers with UTC, AST (American Summer Time), EAS (Europe and America Summer Time), and EWT (European Winter Time); Perpetual Calendar with rollers for the date (retrograde), the month, and the leap year, disk for the day. Decoration All components hand-finished; special "Rays of Light" hand-engraving on the bridges; skeletonized perpetual calendar; 40 hand-done angle retrant. Dial Inner and outer ring in aventurine; rollers in black PVD #wherethewatchesarethestars
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BOVET 1822 The Récital 28 Prowess 1. Solving the terrestrial time problem with a world timer...

July 17, 2024 11:36 am

#tudorwatch #TudorClairdeRose #watchesandwonders2024 @TudorWatch @watchesandwondersofficial Clair de Rose is a classic TUDOR line whose name poetically refers to both clair de lune, “moonlight” in French, and the historical logo of the brand, a rose, combining the two in a playful way. In 2024, the family gets a brand-new “TUDOR Blue” dial. In a classic, refined and timeless spirit, it uses the brand’s historic aesthetic codes without straying from the gentle curves of its middle case and its striking winding crown, which on this model is set with a blue spinel cabochon. Available in three sizes, 26, 30 and 34 millimeters in diameter, it presents opaline and now “TUDOR Blue” dials with delicate decorations in relief, punctuated with Roman numerals or diamonds. Clair de Rose is fitted with a self-winding movement complete with date function and is available exclusively in stainless steel. 1. Satin-brushed and polished case in stainless steel, delicate and stylish case design tapping into TUDOR’s rich heritage 2. “TUDOR Blue” or opaline dial with or without diamonds 3. Self-winding Calibre T601 or T201 with 38-hour power reserve 4. 5-link stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet 5. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required This feminine watch is the latest in a long history at TUDOR, dating back to the art-deco era in the early ’30s. Back then, TUDOR was known for crafting delicate and cutting-edge jewellery watches with a wealth of details, ranging from decorative case engravings to subtle dial ornaments and precious bracelets. A modern take on that heritage, the Clair de Rose line presents a style that is both delicate and bold, making aesthetic reference to lines with evocative names such as Princess, Glamour or Miss TUDOR. It was from the latter collection that one of the most recognisable Clair de Rose elements was taken: the winding crown adorned with a precious spinel cabochon. Another distinctive feature of the Clair de Rose line is its stainless steel 5-link bracelet, sometimes referred to as the “beads of rice” bracelet. Its small size and expertly engineered links make for unrivalled suppleness and comfort while its polished finishes bring a sophisticated shine to the wrist. Ever since 1969 when TUDOR first introduced its signature blue dial on the #TUDORSubmariner TUDOR has incorporated blue dials into its aesthetic code on many of the models in its range. TUDOR Blue isn’t a specific shade of blue, but rather, it’s the idea that the color has come to be closely associated with TUDOR and historically has appeared frequently in the model line-up. Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new #TUDORManufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With #Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality. Since the brand’s creation by #HansWilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every ten years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis. REFERENCES 35200, 35500, 35800 CASE 26, 30 or 34mm stainless steel case with polished finish BEZEL Smooth stainless steel bezel with polished finish WINDING CROWN Stainless steel screw-down winding crown, with blue spinel cabochon DIAL Blue or opaline, with or without diamonds CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 100m (330 ft) BRACELET 5-link stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and safety catch MOVEMENT Self-winding mechanical movement, Calibre T601 (34mm) or T201 (26 or 30mm) POWER RESERVE Approximately 38 hours FUNCTIONS Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Date at 3 o’clock Stop-seconds for precise time setting #wherethewatchesarethestars
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TUDOR Clair de Rose 26, 30 and 34 millimeters in diameter presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

May 28, 2024 2:00 pm

#hublot #hublotbigbang #watchesandwonders2024 @hublot @watchesandwondersofficial HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire. Since 2016, the Hublot x Sang Bleu collaboration has seen the celebrated typographer, tattooist, artist, and founder of Sang Bleu, Maxime Plescia-Buchi, set down his indelible and distinct features, and stamp his three-dimensional geometry with both relief and depth onto Hublot watches. From the Big Bang in 2016 to Spirit of Big Bang in 2023, 2024 is once again making its mark. It has kept the Spirit of Big Bang, maintaining the 42 mm diameter and the soul of the barrel shape, while offering a different aesthetic finish. It is a watch that, even with its ultra-generous proportions and assertive shape, offers perfect ergonomics to suit all wrist sizes, both feminine and masculine. There's no change on the movement side, with the HUB4700, a skeletonized automatic chronograph with date at 4.30, 50-hour power reserve and its oscillating weight redesigned in the Sang Bleu style. The sapphire now extends from the dial – which already revealed the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement through the disc hands designed by Sang Bleu – to the case and the bezel, enhancing the watch’s organic design. The complexity of the design of the collection, plus the demanding geometry of Maxim Plescia-Buchi’s polygonal tattooing, meant that Hublot once again had to push back the boundaries of machining sapphire. Under the impact of the sapphire’s transparency, the purity of the Sang Bleu features, which remain sharp and methodical, expresses itself here in an ultra-light minimalist style, both visually and on the wrist. A fascinating and highly demanding material, whose total transparency required an absolutely perfect level of finish. Thanks to 3D machining and over 100 hours of work, the Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Sang Bleu is practically as hard and scratch-resistant as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 for diamonds). The only remaining non-transparent elements are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp, all cut out of titanium, and the components of the movement. Produced in a run of 100 pieces; making this a collector’s edition! HUBLOT Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic. The Big Bang has introduced different variations of blue, grey and green. Then, in 2019, it presented a world first when the first brightly coloured ceramic was released: a vibrant red. The second of these achievements came in 2021, with a stunning yellow piece. But the Big Bang collector is not someone who is content with the status quo. Far from it! Hublot has therefore continued to innovate and develop new colors, the very latest of which is this orange. Developing an original ceramic color is as simple to say... as it is complex to achieve. The workload should not be underestimated: it requires in-depth research & development. Which additives are needed? In what proportions? What type of firing, at what temperature, and for how long? How can it be machined? Should it have a satin finish? Or polished? How resistant is it to impacts? What about scratches? What pressure? What chemical recipe? This is just a small part of the specifications that govern the development of a new ceramic. And every single aspect is exacting, as the standards guaranteed by Hublot for its ceramic are among the most stringent on the market. 100% internal expertise, patent-protected. The new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic follows in the footsteps of its predecessors. It offers a unique, perfectly uniform colour, whatever exterior component it is used to adorn. It is finished to a very high watchmaking standard, with a perfect mirror polish all over. A blend of high technology and savoir faire were necessary to achieve this level of excellence on all the components, due to their diverse shapes, thicknesses, and angles. Hublot has recreated the exact color of the ceramic for the indices, counters on the dial and hands, as well as for the integrated rubber strap. This strap features the patented "One-Click" system for quick, tool-free changes. This series is limited to 250 pieces. At its heart beats the Unico Chronograph Manufacture calibre. This is the very latest generation of the automatic flyback chronograph movement developed by Hublot. Guaranteeing a three-day power reserve (72 hours), it retains the same aesthetic signature: column wheel at 6 o'clock, bicompax layout (small seconds at 9 o'clock, 60-minute counter at 3 o'clock with integrated date), silicon escapement, and the always demonstrative and powerful skeleton architecture. The Unico sits inside the iconic Big Bang case. This version is 42 mm in diameter and features the famous 6 titanium 'H' shaped bezel screws and lugs on either side of the case that echo the design of a ship’s porthole. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire/Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic. Watches and Wonders 2024

May 27, 2024 2:04 pm

#frederiqueconstant #alpina #watchesandwonders2024 @frederiqueconstant @alpinawatchesofficial @watchesandwondersofficial FREDERIQUE CONSTANT + ALPINA. The two watch brands manufactured in Switzerland in Geneva/Plan-les-Ouates just beside Piaget, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and Harry Winston are convincing once again and offer incredible value for money. FREDERIQUE CONSTANT + ALPINA. CEO Niels Eggerding will present us the new watches and tell us the secret behind the success of "his" watch brands in this video. !!A warning up front!! You may be left open-mouthed when you hear how little these new FREDERIQUE CONSTANT + ALPINA models cost and what they offer for the money. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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FREDERIQUE CONSTANT + ALPINA. New Watches 2024. Incredible Value for the Money! Top Quality!

May 15, 2024 6:32 pm

#patekphilippe #patekphilippenautilus #watchesandwonders2024 @PatekPhilippeGeneva @watchesandwondersofficial The PATEK PHILIPPE Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520RG-001 stands out by its two-tone dial: gray sunburst and charcoal gray, and applied Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hands in charcoal-gray white gold with a luminescent coating. Powered by the caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS self-winding movement, leading to four patent applications for the alarm, this Grand Complication unites the exclusive Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone with a 24-hour alarm mechanism, with a hammer striking on a classic gong. It joins its predecessor in the collection: Reference 5520P-001 in platinum with an ebony-black sunburst dial. Launched as a limited edition at the PATEK PHILIPPE Grand Exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, Reference 5330 is now entering the manufacture’s regular collection. This new-generation World Time is distinguished by a patented world first: a date display synchronized with local time. To offer this useful and user-friendly function, Patek Philippe developed a new movement, the self-winding caliber 240 HU C, featuring an innovative differential system indicating the date on the periphery of the dial by means of a center hand in transparent glass with a red hammer-head-style tip. The new World Time Reference 5330G-001 in white gold has a dial in blue-gray opaline, its center adorned with a “carbon” motif. In 2021, PATEK PHILIPPE unveiled a new perpetual calendar with day, date and month indications in one large aperture at the 12 o’clock position. Equipped with its distinctive patented display mode, this timepiece was launched in a platinum case framing a blue dial with a black gradation to the periphery. The manufacture is now revisiting this platinum model, endowing it with a rose-gilt opaline dial of vintage inspiration presenting facetted baton-style applied hour markers and facetted baton-style hands, all in charcoal-gray white gold. The caliber 31-260 PS QL ultra-thin self-winding movement is notable for its additional module, awarded three patents, and its mini-rotor in platinum increasing the winding power. The new in-line perpetual calendar Reference 5236P-010 joins the platinum version, distinguished by its blue dial with a black-gradient rim, in the regular collection. With its double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock and date aperture at 6 o’clock and its subsidiary 24- hour dial incorporating a moon-phase display, the men’s Annual Calendar Reference 5396, launched in 2006, has established itself as a firm favorite. PATEK PHILIPPE is now bringing out a new version in white gold featuring a blue sunburst dial with a black gradient at the rim lit discreetly by the radiance of twelve baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.26 ct). This elegant contrast plays up the extreme restraint and legibility of the dial design, with its facetted dauphine-style hands in white gold and slender sweep seconds hand. An alligator-leather strap in shiny navy blue echoes the dial color. It is secured by a fold- over clasp in white gold. This new Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017 houses the caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H self-winding movement. The PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus self-winding flyback chronograph Reference 5980, launched in 2006, has offered the choice of versions in rose gold or in two-tone steel and rose gold since 2010. PATEK PHILIPPE now revisits this model in a new version in white gold with a blue-gray opaline dial, on which the rounded- baton style hands and the baton-style applied hour markers stand out clearly in white gold with a white luminescent coating. The dial’s refined color continues through to the two straps delivered with the watch, one in blue-gray calfskin, its embossed “denim” motif edged with contrasting white hand-stitching; the other in a composite material presenting a fabric motif, in blue-gray with contrasting white stitching. Endowed with a slightly enlarged dial opening, this new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 houses a caliber CH 28-520 C self-winding movement grouping the chronograph indications in one large mono-counter at 6 o’clock. After steel and rose gold, the Aquanaut Travel Time with a self-winding movement now presents the first version in white gold, set off by a dial in blue-gray opaline and a matching integrated strap in a composite material. This new Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164G-001, equipped with the caliber 26-330 S C FUS self-winding movement, is distinguished by its system for the display of a second time zone, combining excellent legibility with ease of operation. Its owner has only to press on one of the two pushers set into the left flank of the case to advance or move back the local-hour hand (the solid hand) in one-hour steps, without any effect on the watch’s rate accuracy. The date indication by a hand on the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock is coupled with the local time. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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PATEK PHILIPPE 2024. Some of the novelties presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

May 11, 2024 11:21 am

#Hublot #bigbang #watchesandwonders2024 @hublot @watchesandwondersofficial Hublot's tenth Manufacture Piece (MP) revisits the fundamentals of watchmaking: no dial, hands or oscillating weight, instead a roller display, a circular power reserve and an inclined tourbillon automatic winding by two linear weights. This Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium will be no exception. With its rounded angles, sleek design and sapphire crystal of an unparalleled complexity, it houses a movement which is no less sophisticated. A fusion of form and substance. The mechanical and aesthetic power are inseparable – one of the key concepts guiding the MP collections. And at the point where they intersect, the Manufacture offers a bold reinvention of the classic watchmaking complications. These are avant-garde pieces which are resolutely disruptive in their movement, display and complications. But they are neither concepts nor exercises in style. Like all the other MPs, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium is a complete, accomplished and practical watch that will soon adorn the wrists of a select few collectors. Instinctively, we seek to characterize the piece in the time-honored way... Firstly through the figures, which make for impressive reading: 592 components, 5 years of R&D, 2 linear weights, 1 inclined tourbillon, a circular power reserve, for a model to be produced in a limited edition of just 50 pieces. Next, its indications. Here, things get a little more complicated: The MP-10 has no hands. In their place are four constantly rotating displays: the hours and minutes in the upper third of the dial, combined with an invisible magnifying glass; the circular power reserve in the central third, with a very clear green zone and red zone; and the seconds in the lower third which are indicated directly on the tourbillon cage. It is made from monobloc aluminium, suspended and inclined, and a patent application is pending for this unique mechanical configuration. The piece has no dial: Hublot has fused the calibre with the dial. The movement is the face and soul of the watch. The gaze is drawn directly to the mechanism to read the time. The MP-10 features a highly architectural design and a particularly expressive movement built around volume and depth. Yet, this in no way interferes with reading. Instead, it makes it simpler. The time is read from top to bottom, fluidly and naturally. The power reserve is particularly expressive, with a two-tone disc (red and green) set coaxially to the hours and minutes. This design eliminates the traditional space constraints, which are usually dictated by a central display in a horizontal plane. The MP-10 can be easily read vertically: hours, minutes, power reserve then seconds. The movement of the eye is fluid and natural. The indications are aligned. They share the same white lacquer typography on black aluminium rollers. For each indication, the current time is read via a red triangular marker. Its winding system follows the same logic. A traditional movement is formed of a flat dial paired with an oscillating weight on the case-back side. However, this type of construction is incompatible with the MP-10. The piece has no dial or hands, it is not flat, and it is read vertically. So, how is it wound? The engineers at Hublot retained the weight principle but verticalised it, just like the movement, then duplicated it. On either side of the central architecture sit two blocks of white gold, arranged on a vertical axis along which they are free to move. To prevent them from colliding with the banking, Hublot developed a system of shock absorbers. These two vertical weights engage a rack and are able to wind the movement bidirectionally – an exclusive Hublot development for which a patent is also pending, that gives the MP-10 a power reserve of more than 48 hours. The watch is wound manually via the crown at 12 o'clock, while the time is set using a second crown nestled on the case-back side to preserve the fluidity of the design. The exterior is finally on a level with the movement. While the case construction is simple (two pieces, middle and case-back in shiny micro-blasted titanium), the sapphire crystal atop it is Hublot's most complex to date, and combines inclined planes on three axes. The same applies to the integrated rubber strap – also the most refined ever designed by the Manufacture. Until the next Manufacture Piece ... #wherethewatchesarethestars
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HUBLOT MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium & more presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

May 9, 2024 2:54 pm

#alangesohne #datograph #watchesandwonders2024 @alangesoehne @watchesandwondersofficial 25 years after the launch of the DATOGRAPH, A. Lange & Söhne introduced a lustrous new interpretation: the DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON HONEYGOLD “Lumen”. At Watches and Wonders 2024, the timepiece combining a flyback chronograph with a precise jumping minute counter, perpetual calendar and tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism has been presented ‒ for the first time in Lange-exclusive honey gold (HONEYGOLD®) and as a “Lumen” version, limited to 50 watches. Price: 620.000.- Euro including VAT. DATOGRAPH designates a flyback chronograph with the typical Lange outsize date. The flyback mechanism allows quick consecutive time measurements because the three switching steps stop, reset to zero and start are executed with one single push of a button. The minute counter assures unambiguous readings of stopped times: it jumps to the next increment at the precise moment when the chrono seconds hand completes the 60th second. The functionality of the chronograph is complemented with a tachymeter scale for determining average speeds; it is located on the outer circumference of the dial made of coated sapphire crystal. PERPETUAL refers to the perpetual calendar with its instantaneously switching displays. With a view to long-term time measurement, it is based on the Gregorian calendar and takes into account the different durations of the months, including leap-year deviations. Due to its stunning mechanical precision, the forward-looking moon-phase display will only deviate from the true lunation by a single day after 122.6 years. The rapid-correction button at 10 o’clock can be used to simultaneously advance all displays by one day. Three correctors on the flank of the case make it possible to separately adjust the moon-phase display, the day of the week, the month and the leap year. TOURBILLON refers to the one-minute tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism; it offsets the influence of gravity on the going train. Once a minute, it rotates the rate-governing components ‒ balance, lever and escape wheel ‒ inside a filigreed cage about its own axis around the stationary fourth wheel. The highly aesthetic and horologically intricate device substantially improves rate accuracy of mechanical timepieces. 200 years after the tourbillon was invented, A. Lange & Söhne presented its stop-seconds mechanism in 2008, taking a huge step towards optimising this device. It made it possible to stop the tourbillon at will and set the watch to one-second accuracy for the very first time, regardless of the angular position of the balance or the orientation of the tourbillon cage. When the crown is pulled, a lever mechanism releases the stop lever, which guides the arresting spring in the direction of the balance. The contact pressure of the spring instantly stops both the balance and the tourbillon cage. When the crown is pushed home, the balance and tourbillon are released, and the watch instantly starts running again. Not only does the DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON HONEYGOLD “Lumen” distinguish itself thanks to its ingenuous mechanisms but also because of the lucid arrangement of the displays, translating technical finesse into an exceptional design language. Comprising an equilateral triangle formed by the Lange outsize date in a framed twin aperture beneath 12 o’clock and the two subsidiary dials, the dial architecture is a well-organised model of clarity, despite the abundance of displays. The subsidiary seconds dial, the day of the week and the day/night indicator are located on the left-hand side, while the precise jumping minute counter, the month and the leap year can be found on the right. The moon-phase display at 6 o’clock is harmoniously embedded in the ensemble. The DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON HONEYGOLD “Lumen” also reveals its radiant personality in the dark ‒ thanks to the semi-transparent dial and the luminous coating that make the displays and functions glow. The darker the surroundings, the more prominent the luminous elements appear. The hour and minute hands are inlaid with a luminous compound, while the chrono seconds hand is completely coated. The hands of the subsidiary seconds, month, day of the week and minute counter move above luminous subsidiary dials. The subjacent luminous compound causes the inscription on the circumferential dial ring with the minute scale and tachymeter scale to glow. The luminous outsize date, a distinctive highlight, first featured in the GRAND LANGE 1 “Lumen” in 2013, rendering the ingenious disc mechanism visible. Guaranteeing that the outsize date display also glows just after the daily switching sequence, presented a considerable challenge. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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A. LANGE & SÖHNE Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. 25 years... Attention Watch Porn!

May 3, 2024 6:52 pm

#watchesandwonders2024 #tagheuer #tagheuercarrera @tagheuer @watchesandwondersofficial TAG HEUER MONACO SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH. TAG Heuer reignites its Haute Horlogerie d’Avant-Garde with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, a striking fusion of tradition and innovation. A vibrant tribute to the original 1969 model, this incredible timepiece features the highly sophisticated rattrapante chronograph complication, now encased in a modern reinterpretation of the TAG Heuer Monaco’s iconic square design. TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH. The release of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph redefines the iconic Carrera collection, drawing inspiration from Jack Heuer's 7753 SN design. With a sleek panda dial and modern touches, including a 39mm steel case and Heuer 02 movement, it seamlessly blends vintage charm with contemporary elegance. The addition of a steel bracelet option - the first on the redesigned Carrera collection - extends the Carrera legacy, reflecting TAG Heuer's commitment to innovation while honoring its rich heritage. TAG HEUER CARRERA CHRONOGRAPH SKIPPER. TAG Heuer brings out its new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper crafted from 18K 5N rose gold. Retaining the iconic 'glassbox' design and housing the in-house Heuer 02 (ref. TH20-06), this luxurious timepiece combines sophistication with functionality for regatta timing. Inspired by the historic Skipper Reference 7754, it features a sea-blue dial with contrasting sub-dials, reminiscing on TAG Heuer's maritime heritage, while a transparent case back and blue textile strap add a modern touch. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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TAG HEUER Watches Presented by New CEO Julian Tornare at Watches and Wonders 2024.

May 2, 2024 1:47 pm

#rolex #gmtmaster #watchesandwonders2024 @ROLEX @watchesandwondersofficial Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II The 24-hour hand of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II displays much more than just an alternative time zone. It points to another location that resonates with the wearer - a reminder of the emotions that accompany each traveller. Rolex Oyster Perpetual DeepSea Precious and technical. Majestic and innovative. A bright watch for the dark abyss. The new version of the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea is engineered to shine into the ocean depths. Rolex Perpetual 1908 A watch of rare distinction, the new Perpetual 1908 is a visual masterpiece. On its dial, light bounces off the raised pattern, producing a variety of reflections with every movement of the wrist. A timepiece that affirms its unique identity with elegance and finesse in even the smallest details. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date An expression for every face. A personality for every dial. The new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date express the brand's enduring desire for rare and wide-ranging expertise to be found in even the smallest details. Colours, materials, motifs, hour markers - each element contributes to the harmony of the new combinations. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller Sophisticated, technical and distinguished, the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is designed to enable tireless travellers to rapidly find their bearings. Reaffirming its elegance, it delights the senses with versions that spark the emotions through a symphony of reflections. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Two new reinterpretations of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona achieve the perfect balance of precision and preciousness. In a subtle interplay of hues, they write another chapter in the legendary story of a model known for a wealth of variations, summoning the potential in each of us for perpetual reinvention. #wherethewatchesarethestars #rolex1908 #rolexdaytona #rolexdeepsea #rolexskydweller #rolexdaydate #rolexgmtmaster2
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ROLEX 2024. New watches presented at Watches and Wonders in Geneva.

April 23, 2024 12:50 pm

#zenithwatches #zenithdefy #watchesandwonders2024 @zenithwatches @watchesandwondersofficial The ZENITH Defy Skyline Chronograph is available in metallic black, blue or silver. Its dial pairs the collection’s signature starry sky-patterned dial featuring engraved four-pointed stars with the traditional El Primero dial configuration. Three slightly oversized and overlapping counters show the elapsed seconds and minutes of the chronograph, as well as the constant running seconds. The date window – matching the colour of the dial – is positioned at 4:30, another El Primero signature. The flange ring with the 1/10th of a second scale has twelve facets, the form of the dodecagonal bezel and serving as extensions of the hour markers. In an ever-faster moving world, every fraction of a second counts. Just like in the Defy Skyline automatic model and its skeleton counterpart, ZENITH continues to offer the 1/10th of a second function found, now in the form of a1/10th of a second chronographin the Defy Skyline Chronograph. This mechanical feat is the result of the El Primero 3600 calibre’s high-frequency rate of 5Hz (36’000 vibrations per hour), visible through the display back. Its open star-shaped oscillating weight with bidirectional winding efficiently provides a power reserve of 60 hours. One of the highlights of the Defy Skyline is its integrated quick strap-change mechanism integrated directly into the case, allowing for effortless versatility without requiring any tools. With the simple push of a button, the three-link steel bracelet can be swapped with the supplied star-patterned rubber strap with steel folding buckle. The ZENITH Defy Skyline Chronograph is available from all ZENITH boutiques and authorized retailers. ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH (Blue-toned sunray-patterned) Reference: 03.9500.3600/51.I001 Key points: 1/10th of a second Chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Starry sky pattern on the dial. Screwed-in crown. Date indication at 4:30. Full Interchangeable strap system. Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz Power reserve: approx. 60 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. 1/10th of a second Chronograph. Date indication at 4:30 o’clock. Stop-second mechanism. Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings Price: 12’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 42mm Dial: Blue-toned sunray-patterned Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet included: blue rubber with stainless steel folding clasp. ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH (Silver-toned sunray-patterned) Reference: 03.9500.3600/01.I001 Key points: 1/10th of a second Chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Starry sky pattern on the dial. Screwed-in crown. Date indication at 4:30. Full Interchangeable strap system. Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz Power reserve: approx. 60 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. 1/10th of a second Chronograph. Date indication at 4:30 o’clock. Stop-second mechanism. Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings Price: 12’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 42mm Dial: Silver-toned sunray-patterned Hour markers: Ruthenium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Hands: Ruthenium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet included: green rubber with stainless steel folding clasp ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH (Black-toned sunray-patterned) Reference: 03.9500.3600/21.I001 Key points: 1/10th of a second Chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Starry sky pattern on the dial. Screwed-in crown. Date indication at 4:30. Full Interchangeable strap system. Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz Power reserve: approx. 60 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. 1/10th of a second Chronograph. Date indication at 4:30 o’clock. Stop-second mechanism. Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings Price: 12’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 42mm Dial: Black-toned sunray-patterned Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet included: black rubber with stainless steel folding clasp #wherethewatchesarethestars
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ZENITH Defy Skyline Chronograph in black, blue or silver presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 19, 2024 12:45 pm

#tudorwatch #blackbay58 #watchesandwonders2024 @TudorWatch @watchesandwondersofficial The name TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case and bracelet, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. The Black Bay 58 18K is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in 18 ct solid yellow gold, offered with an open case back. And now it comes with a matching all satin-finished 18 ct yellow gold bracelet to boot. 1. 39mm case with satin finish in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back 2. Subtly domed matt “golden green” dial with applied hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold 3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, in 18 ct yellow gold, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material 4. Manufacture Calibre MT5400, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve 5. 3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp 6. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required Entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, the 18 ct yellow gold case of the Black Bay 58 18K is another first for a TUDOR divers' watch. An open case back, which reveals the new Manufacture Calibre MT5400, has not been offered by the brand before for this type of product and reinforces the dual aesthetic language of this model. Midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object, the Black Bay 58 18K remains as rare as it is exclusive. The matt 18 ct yellow gold of the Black Bay 58 18K is emphasised by the combination of dial and bezel, which are a rich “golden green” in tone with matt gold details. The “Snowflake” hands are also in 18 ct yellow gold, as are the applied hour markers. Another first for a TUDOR diving watch, the Black Bay 58 18K now comes with a solid gold 3-link bracelet featuring the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical touch allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp. The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which powers the Black Bay 58 18K, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations. The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds, TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches with Manufacture Calibres. Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is "weekend-proof"; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it. REFERENCE 79018V CASE 39mm 18 ct yellow gold case with satin finish throughout Open case back with sapphire crystal BEZEL 60-minute unidirectional rotatable bezel in 18 ct yellow gold with matt green anodised aluminium insert WINDING CROWN 18 ct yellow gold screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR rose in relief and circular satin-brushed 18 ct yellow gold winding crown tube DIAL Matt green, domed, with 18 ct gold applied hour markers CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200m (660 ft) BRACELET 3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with satin finish throughout and 18 ct yellow gold “T-fit” clasp MOVEMENT Manufacture Calibre MT5400 Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system POWER RESERVE Approximately 70 hours PRECISION Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) FUNCTIONS Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Stop-seconds for precise time setting OSCILLATOR Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz) TOTAL DIAMETER 30.3mm THICKNESS 5mm JEWELS 27 jewels #wherethewatchesarethestars
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TUDOR Black Bay 58 18K. 193 Grams of 18 Carat Gold presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 17, 2024 11:39 am

#zenithwatches #watchesandwonders2024 #scubadiving @zenithwatches @watchesandwondersofficial ZENITH DEFY Extreme Diver and ZENITH DEFY Revival A3648. With a legacy going as far back as 1969, the DEFY Diver was in fact among the earliest DEFY wristwatch offerings. Keeping the collection’s distinctive design with its signature angular case and dodecagonal bezel, ZENITH incorporated all the necessary elements to create a diver’s watch, including a rotating bezel and bright colour accents for instant readability underwater. With the same ethos of combining form and function for a specific purpose, ZENITH is now unveiling a modern diver’s watch inspired by both historical DEFY diver’s references as well as the modern incarnation of the DEFY line, notably the DEFY Extreme. The result is a feature-packed diver’s watch that is obviously and inherently a ZENITH DEFY, built to withstand the extreme conditions encountered in the harshest environments where ice, mist and deep dark waters require enhanced performance and legibility. While inspired by a long line of DEFY divers from 1969 onwards, the DEFY Extreme Diver is as modern as they come. Its singular and highly intricate design serve to enhance its depth-defying performance, which was conceived to take on extreme conditions where ice, water and mist present a host of challenges. Its 42.5mm angular case is crafted in titanium, a metal that not only boasts a significant weight-to-strength ratio but is also highly resistant to corrosion from salty seawater. The case is equipped with a helium escape valve for saturation diving. Above the fixed dodecagonal bezel, the ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel features grooved edges for a better grip when operating – even with gloves on. The bezel is engraved and filled with Super-LumiNova and bright colours for effortless reading underwater where light is scarce. The oversized screw-down crown feature is protected by titanium crown-guards on either side. Just like the historical DEFY A3648 from 1969, the DEFY Extreme Diver is rated to 600 metres (60 ATM) of water-resistance, which happens to be 1’969 feet – a symbolic number for the DEFY diver. It meets the ISO 6425 requirements for professional diver watches, which include ISO 764 for paramagnetism as well as ISO 1413 for shock-resistance, making it a comprehensive diver’s watch suited to the most demanding conditions. Something of a signature in the contemporary DEFY line, the dial features a geometric pattern of engraved four-pointed stars. Available in black and blue with matching ceramic bezels, the metallic dials feature a sunburst finish, with rays emanating from the applied ZENITH star at 12 o’clock. The date at 3 o’clock is colour-matched to the dial. Legibility is a key factor in the DEFY Extreme Diver – and it shows. The dial’s oversized hands and applied hour markers feature three different pigments of “X1” grade Super-LumiNova with light emissions in blue, green and orange, making it easy to distinguish between the functions (hours, minutes and seconds). The bright orange accents are a nod to historical DEFY diver models. The DEFY Extreme Diver is powered by the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre with 60 hours power reserve, visible through a sapphire display back – an uncommon feature among diver’s watches. This version of El Primero features a paramagnetic escapement with key components in non-metallic silicon. Completing the DEFY Extreme Diver is its titanium three-link bracelet as well as two supplied straps. The first additional strap is in FKM rubber, matching the dial colour with a Cordura-effect texture that features vents on the side, allowing water to pass through. In line with ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative to reduce the brand’s environmental impact and produce more sustainably, the DEFY Extreme Diver also comes with an extra-long strap made of recycled fishing nets, intended to be worn over a wetsuit. It features specific end-pieces to pass the single-piece strap through and under the case for a secure fit. The DEFY Extreme Diver with blue and black dials are available from all ZENITH boutiques and authorized retailers around the world. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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ZENITH Defy divers... Refreshingly Different... Presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 13, 2024 5:57 pm

#panerai #lunarossa #watchesandwonders2024 @PaneraiOfficial @watchesandwondersofficial PANERAI Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech. Becoming the Official Sponsor of Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli for the first time in 2019, it was during the 36th America’s Cup presented by Prada, held in the Hauraki Gulf of Auckland in 2021, that Panerai culminated its nautical ties with the sailing team. This partnership emerged naturally for a brand like Panerai that makes performance and technological innovation its distinctive flags. Over these six years of cherished partnership, Panerai has relentlessly developed collections of technical watches, one for each year of preparation in the run-up to the ultimate challenge, either drawing inspiration from the technologies and materials used in the America’s Cup or from the insights and needs of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team. The release represents a strategic alliance of high performance and cutting-edge technology in the shape of a new innovative material, Ti-CeramitechTM, mirroring the ethos of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team at the apex of sailing competition. The 44mm Ti-CeramitechTM case, is inspired by a material and process originally used in high-performance competitive environments. The innovative use of ceramic-coated materials, developed through the high-demand, high-tech sailing world of Luna Rossa, represents an example of how cutting-edge technology and materials science can elevate performance in sport environments. This process, particularly the ceramization of steel parts to significantly reduce friction, enhances the efficiency and speed of racing boats and was a source of inspiration for Panerai. Through seven years of meticulous research and development, Panerai has filed a patent application for a titanium ceramization process through Electrolytic Plasma Oxidation able to achieve a very distinctive hue of blue. This process transforms the titanium alloy surface into a dense ceramic layer, and the specific choice of elements used, combined with the electrolyte composition, allowed for the creation of the watch’s peculiar and striking blue color, a shade inspired by the open seas. The technique yields a significantly enhanced hardness, and the resultant case is 44% lighter than steel yet has fracture toughness ten times higher than traditional ceramic. A material that can withstand high pressure, and very high thermal stress, it is an ode to the Panerai’s pursuit of creating reliable innovative instruments. At the heart of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-CeramitechTM is the automatic P.900, a caliber renowned for its reliability with a 3-day power reserve. The P.900 is an automatic caliber that integrates expansive function within the confines of remarkably streamlined proportions. It measures twelve 1⁄2 lignes (28 mm) in diameter and is only 4.2 mm thick. The energy necessary to accumulate a power reserve of three days is delivered by a bidirectional oscillating weight and stored in a single barrel. Its balance wheel, oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, is securely fixed in position by a balance cock. The caliber is equipped with a stop-second function that enables precise time setting. The bezel, like the case, reflects the advanced pursuits of the Maison’s manufacture. Machined titanium is ceramized and then meticulously reworked to reveal the metal beneath at strategic points, creating an eye-catching contrast of materials, punctuating the crown and its protecting lever, the edge and indexes of the bezel, the back-case, and the trapezoidal pin buckle. The blue shade resulting from the ceramization process is so distinctive that it prompted the development of a bespoke color for the accompanying straps, further accentuating the watch’s singular character. Water resistant up to 50 bar (~500 meters), these watches have been rigorously tested, subjecting them to a pressure up to 25% greater than the guaranteed water resistance value to ensure they exceed Panerai’s stringent standards. The improved value is a significant milestone in a domain deeply intertwined with Panerai’s heritage that has consistently made the Maison a preferred choice. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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PANERAI Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 12, 2024 4:05 pm

#tudorwatch #watchesandwonders2024 @TudorWatch @watchesandwondersofficial This is the shortest video we ever published... but maybe the coolest one. Why? Watch the following two videos and then you'll understand... https://youtu.be/DThd8-zJL4c https://youtu.be/qRxsfor2ndg #wherethewatchesarethestars @watchesandwondersofficial
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TUDOR Black Bay Lumeshots presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 11, 2024 7:19 pm

#watchesandwonders2024 #wherethewatchesarethestars @watchesandwondersofficial EXHIBITING MAISONS A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | ARTYA WATCHES | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | BREMONT | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | EBERHARD & CO. | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GERALD CHARLES | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE. | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER‑LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | NORQAIN | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | RAYMOND WEIL | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U‐BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH
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Inside WATCHES and WONDERS 2024 a WatchAdvisor private tour...

April 11, 2024 6:59 pm

#tudorwatch #blackbay #watchesandwonders2024 @TudorWatch @watchesandwondersofficial The TUDOR Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. The watch is the perfect match for a GMT function, and with the Black Bay 58 GMT, the jet-setter’s ultimate function comes with a touch of mid-century elegance. The bezel is burgundy and black with a gilt 24-hour scale, keeping with the general design language of the Black Bay line. The design is reminiscent of a time when TUDOR divers' watches were first being made and jet planes were moving through times zones and delivering interlopers to destinations they could only dream of, faster than ever before. Finishing gilt touches have been applied to the hour markers, hands, and hour markers of the bicolour bezel. Another fan-favourite touch that remains on the Black Bay 58 GMT is the winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief. KEY POINTS “Original” Black Bay 58 proportions of a 39mm case in stainless steel with a 24-hour bidirectional black and burgundy bezel with gilt accents Subtly domed matt black dial with gilt accents “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve Master Chronometer certified by METAS A choice between a stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet or a rubber strap, both with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required TUDOR QUALITY With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay 58 GMT, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches. COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR's internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand's models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION BY METAS All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below: Swiss Made Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33% Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure Waterproof to 200m (660 ft) 65-hour power reserve #wherethewatchesarethestars
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TUDOR Black Bay 58 GMT Master Chronometer certified presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 10, 2024 12:18 pm

#tudorwatch #blackbay #watchesandwonders2024 @TudorWatch @watchesandwondersofficial The TUDOR Black Bay in the collection is another example of TUDOR's expert command of one of the industry's most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Black Bay brings together cutting-edge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly seven-decade heritage of making robust professional diving watches. KEY POINTS 1. “Original” Black Bay proportions of a 41mm case in stainless steel with a 60-minute unidirectional black bezel with silver accents 2. Subtly domed satin radial-brushed black dial with silver accents 3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material 4. Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve 5. A choice between a stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” or 5-link bracelet or a rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp 6. Master Chronometer certified by METAS 7. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches. https://www.metas.ch/metas/en/home/dok/rechtliches/Zertifizierung_Uhren.html COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on uncased movements and a second less than TUDOR's internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand's models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR METAS CERTIFICATION All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below: − Swiss Made − Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) − Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33% − Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure − Waterproof to 200m (660 ft) − 70-hour power reserve REFERENCE 7941A1A0NU CASE 41mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish BEZEL 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with black aluminium insert WINDING CROWN Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief DIAL Black, domed, with silver-coloured applied hour markers CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200m (660 ft) BRACELET 3-link or 5-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes, or rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp MOVEMENT Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system POWER RESERVE Certified 70 hours by METAS PRECISION Swiss Chronometer officially certified by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) Master Chronometer Certification from METAS FUNCTIONS Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Stop-seconds for precise time setting OSCILLATOR Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz) TOTAL DIAMETER 31.8mm THICKNESS 6.5mm JEWELS 25 jewels #wherethewatchesarethestars
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TUDOR Black Bay in monochrome presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 9, 2024 8:56 pm

#hermes #hermescut #watchesandwonders2024 @hermes @watchesandwondersofficial HERMÈS Cut celebrates simple shapes through its powerful style. A circle. A round shape. Hermès Cut plays with the vocabulary of geometry dear to Hermès. Sharp angles and crisply drawn lines endow this universally appealing watch with a distinctive identity. The balanced proportions of the satin-brushed and polished case and the gleam of its clean-cut edges accentuate its character. The crown, boldly positioned at half past one and embellished with a lacquered or engraved H, stands out for its originality. Playing with light and shimmering effects, the bevel-cut bezel frames a generous dial with a curved edge, punctuated by luminescent applied Arabic numerals. The unique embossed font complements the simplicity of the watch and enlivens time read-off. The watch is powered by a Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement. This mechanical self-winding calibre, revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback, drives the display of hours, minutes and seconds. Polished, phosphorescent and partly openworked, the elegant baton-shaped hour and minute hands, along with a large seconds hand bearing a luminous dot, sweep over the silver-toned dial with its grey- and orange-accented minutes track. The seamlessly integrated metal bracelet features supple links with a rounded profile and alternating finishes picking up the case design. In addition, a rubber strap is available in a range of eight colours drawn from the Hermès palette – white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean and capucine – while a clever interchangeability system makes it easy to play with styles on a daily basis. Whether all in steel or in an elegant two-tone combination of steel and rose gold – with 56 bezel-set diamonds or without – the Hermès Cut watch asserts its versatile and timeless personality. Technical description of the version in steel ... Dial Opaline silver-toned Applied grey PVD-treated Arabic numerals enhanced with Super-LumiNova® Snailed silver-toned minutes ring Transferred grey and orange minutes ring markings Rhodium-plated polished baton-type hands enhanced with Super-LumiNova® Case “A circle within a round shape” 36 mm in diameter, 11 mm interhorn width Circular satin-finish steel case with polished bevels Crown at 1:30 and orange-lacquered H Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback Water-resistant to 10 bar Movement Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement Mechanical self-winding, crafted in Switzerland Average 50-hour power reserve Circular-grained and snailed mainplate, satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight, signature sprinkling of Hs Functions Hours, minutes, seconds Bracelet/Strap Interchangeable system Bracelet in satin-brushed and polished steel Butterfly clasp in satin-brushed steel with polished pushers Strap in white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean or capucine rubber 17 mm steel pin buckle satin-brushed along the 6 to 12 o’clock axis, polished vertical faces Technical description of the version in steel/gold ... Dial Opaline silver-toned Applied gilded PVD-treated Arabic numerals enhanced with Super-LumiNova® Snailed silver-toned minutes ring Transferred grey minutes ring markings 4N gilded polished baton-type hands coated enhanced Super-LumiNova® Case “A circle within a round shape” 36 mm in diameter, 11 mm interhorn width Circular satin-finish steel case with polished bevels, bezel in 750 5N rose gold (11.15 g) Crown in 750 5N rose gold (0.48 g) at 1:30, engraved H Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback Water-resistant to 10 bar Movement Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement Mechanical self-winding, crafted in Switzerland Average 50-hour power reserve Circular-grained and snailed mainplate, satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight, signature sprinkling of Hs Functions Hours, minutes, seconds Bracelet/Strap Interchangeable system Bracelet in satin-brushed and polished steel and rose gold Butterfly clasp in satin-brushed steel with polished pushers Strap in white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean or capucine rubber 17 mm steel pin buckle satin-brushed along the 6 to 12 o’clock axis, polished vertical faces #wherethewatchesarethestars
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HERMÈS Cut watches presented at Watches And Wonders 2024 by Creative Director Philippe Delhotal.

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#chopard #finejewelry #watchesandwonders2024 @chopard @watchesandwondersofficial The subtle balance between the art of jewellery-making and watchmaking expertise enables L'Heure du Diamant from Chopard to combine intelligence and beauty, thereby offering the perfect expression of today's femininity. The new timepiece joining the collection is fresh demonstration of this reality. The absolute purity of the diamond is majestically highlighted by an emblematic gemsetting technique called crown setting, which exalts the beauty of each stone by allowing the light to blaze through. This ribbon composed of more than two carats of brilliant-cut diamonds encircling the case lights up a dainty mother-of-pearl dial set with 12 brilliant-cut diamonds. Crafted in ethical 18-carat yellow gold, this L'Heure is powered by a mechanical manual-winding movement driving hours and minutes indications, with a 45-hour power reserve. Measuring 15.70 mm in diameter and only 2.90 mm thick, this brand-new in-house movement is one of the daintiest and slimmest to date, thus making it a perfect fit for dainty jewellery watches. It was entirely developed and produced within the Maison’s workshops in Fleurier, Switzerland, revealing both the technical brilliance and the perpetual quest for innovation cultivated by Chopard. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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CHOPARD L’Heure du Diamant presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#iwcwatches #iwcportugieser #watchesandwonders2024 @iwcwatches @watchesandwondersofficial IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portugieser Eternal Calendar with Moon Phase accuracy of 45 Million Years. The watch is based on the same design as the existing perpetual calendar. All its displays can be advanced using the crown. However, while the perpetual calendar is programmed for a four-year cycle, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an additional mechanism. Every four years at the end of February, a new module informs the calendar about whether the leap year takes place or not. This so-called 400-years gear completes only one revolution every four centuries. It contains three indentations, which cause the calendar to skip three leap years over that period. This module is designed with impressive efficiency and technical elegance and consists of only eight parts, underscoring IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking. While the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW3750) from 1985 featured a moon phase precision of 122 years, the first Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Ref. IW5021) from 2003 impressed with a moon phase accuracy of 577.5 years. IWC’s engineers have now taken on the challenge to develop a new moon phase display with unprecedented precision. The difficulty in displaying the moon phase on the dial of a watch lies in the fact that the moon does not follow a daily rhythm in its orbit around the Earth. A cycle from new moon to new moon – one lunation – does not last 30 days, but rather 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.88 seconds. The duration of one calendar month must therefore be reduced as close as possible to one lunar cycle. This is achieved by placing a reduction gear between the base movement and the moon phase disc. The key to high precision lies in the quantity of wheels used, their proportions and the number of teeth they have. IWC’s engineers have now used a special computer program to simulate more than 22 trillion different combinations. For the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, they came up with a new reduction gear train using three intermediate wheels. Mathematically, the display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. Another challenge consisted in integrating this new gear train into the confined space of the eternal calendar module. The moon phase is displayed on the dial using the characteristic Double MoonTM indication, which shows the moon as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The display consists of two super- imposed discs. A celestial disc with two small circular openings rotates above an immobile lower disc with two dots. This negative representation gives the impression that two small moons are waxing or waning. Here, the lower disc is made of titanium and decorated with a Guilloché pattern. The upper disc is made of glass. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case with polished and brushed surfaces. Another highlight is the glass dial, which is manufactured in a complex process. In the first step, the underside of the dial is frosted and lacquered in white. The subdials are machined and polished separately and subsequently fixed onto the dial. In the next step, the printing is applied, and the appliques are mounted by hand. The depth of the glass lends the print and appliques a floaty lightness. The numerals and the characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange sitting between the glass dial and the front glass. The box-glass sapphire crystals are machined and polished in an elaborate process. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from the Italian leather artisan Santoni with a platinum folding clasp. At work inside the platinum case is the newly developed IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre. The high-end calibre features a highly efficient Pellaton winding system. Using movements of the rotor in both directions, it reliably builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in the two barrels. Parts of the winding system that are subject to extremely high stresses are manufactured using virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. The movement has been elaborately finished with circular graining and Geneva stripes and can be admired through the box-shaped sapphire glass case back. REF. IW505701 FEATURES Mechanical movement – Pellaton automatic winding system – Power reserve display – Secular perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits – Perpetual moon phase with 45,000,000 years accuracy for both northern and southern hemispheres – 400-years gear for the recognition of irregular leap years – Small hacking seconds – Rotor in 18-carat gold – See-through sapphire glass back #wherethewatchesarethestars
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portugieser Eternal Calendar presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#jaegerlecoultre #duometre #watchesandwonders2024 @jaegerlecoultre @watchesandwondersofficial JAEGER-LECOULTRE Duometre Chronograph Moon, Duometre Quantieme Lunaire and Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Before Jaeger-LeCoultre developed the Duometre concept, adding complications to a watch movement seemed irreconcilable with accurate timekeeping. That is because the fundamental requirement of precise timekeeping is that the power supply from the movement’s barrel to the escapement should be absolutely steady. However, in order to operate, a complication must draw on the power supply, which interrupts that steady flow and thus jeopardises precision. Thanks to this ingenious concept, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre added a new chapter to watchmaking history, opening the door to horological complexity and laying the foundation of an entire Duometre collection. Introduced in 2007, the patented Duometre mechanism features two barrels and two separate gear trains housed in a single calibre and linked to a single regulating organ. One gear train powers the time indications and the other drives all additional functions. By separating the power supply in this way, the Duometre mechanism guarantees an exceptionally high degree of operating accuracy. Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the ground-breaking Duometre mechanism in the form of a chronograph – the complication that epitomises the concept of precision. In 2024, the Maison applies the Duometre concept in an entirely new timepiece, marrying the high precision of a chronograph with the charm of a celestial complication. Powered by the new Calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon presents an intriguing contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph – which can time intervals as small as 1/6th of a second – and the slow rhythm of the moon as it passes through its cycle in 29.53 days, complemented by a Night and Day display. This year Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new generation of Duometre timepieces – among them a reinterpretation of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase). The first Duometre piece to be offered in steel (!), its eye-catching blue dial, paired with a new case, lends a decidedly contemporary air to a timeless and distinctive design. The highlight of the new collection is the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. This watch is pushing the boundaries of inventiveness further than ever, the new Calibre 388 features an entirely new tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. The balance-wheel oscillates at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, Calibre 388 also incorporates a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication. TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS DUOMETRE CHRONOGRAPH MOON Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats) or 950 platinum Dimensions: 42.5 mm diameter x 14.2 mm thick Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 391 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; Chronograph with 12-hour counter, 60-minute counter, 1/6th-second counter and central chronograph seconds; Moon phases, Night & Day, two Power Reserve indicators Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel Front dial: Silver opaline (in pink gold case); Copper-coloured opaline (in platinum case) Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Alligator with small scale alligator lining Reference: Pink Gold: Q622252J / Platinum: Q622656J DUOMETRE QUANTIEME LUNAIRE Case: Steel Dimensions: 42.5 mm diameter x 13.05 mm thick Calibre: Manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381 Functions: Hour, Minutes, Central Seconds, 1/6th of a second, Moon Phases, Date, Two power reserves Power Reserve: 50 hours for each barrel Front dial: Blue opaline Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Alligator with small scale alligator lining Reference: Q604848J DUOMETRE HELIOTOURBILLON PERPETUAL Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 carats) Dimensions: 44 mm x 14.7 mm thick Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 388 Functions: Hours and Minutes, Seconds, Heliotourbillon, Perpetual calendar (Day, Date, Month, Year), Moon phases, Two power reserves Power Reserve: 46 hours for each barrel Front dial: Silver opaline Water resistance: 3 bar Strap: Brown alligator leather with small-scale alligator lining Reference: Q6202420 – limited edition of 20 pieces #wherethewatchesarethestars
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE Duomètre. Three new mind-blowing executions presented at Watches and Wonders 2024

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#chopard #alpineeagle #watchesandwonders2024 @chopard @watchesandwondersofficial The CHOPARD Alpine Eagle collection of sporty-chic timepieces is interpreting its flyback chronograph in a case featuring the extreme lightness of grade 5 titanium, a metal known for its tried and tested sturdiness. Like the entire collection, this Alpine Eagle XL Chrono model with its 44 mm-diameter case now framing a new “Rhône Blue” dial colour remains strongly inspired by the power of the eagle and the beauty of the Alps. The three patents for its Chopard 03.05-C chronometer-certified movement with flyback function testify to innovations enhancing its accuracy as well as its smooth handling. In line with the Maison’s commitment to preserving the Alpine environment and its biodiversity, part of the proceeds from sales of this model will be donated to the Alpine Eagle Foundation. Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in titanium Case Grade 5 titanium Total diameter 44.00 mm Thickness 13.15 mm Water resistance 100 metres Crown in Lucent SteelTM with compass rose 8 mm Pushers in Lucent SteelTM Caseband in grade 5 titanium Bezel in grade 5 titanium with eight screws set at a tangent Glare-proofed sapphire crystal Exhibition case-back with sapphire crystal and Alpine Eagle logo Movement Mechanical self-winding movement Chopard 03.05-C Integrated column-wheel chronograph mechanism Number of components 310 Diameter 28.80 mm Thickness 7.60 mm Number of jewels 45 Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Power reserve 60 hours Annual balance with balance-spring featuring a flat terminal curve Patented chronograph zero-resetting mechanism with pivoting hammers and elastic arms Patented unidirectional gear drive Patented vertical clutch system Openworked central rotor with tungsten alloy Chronometer-certified by the COSC Dial and hands Brass dial stamped with a sunburst pattern inspired by the iris of an eagle, in a "Rhône Blue" colour achieved b PVD treatment Applied numerals and hour-markers, rhodium-plated and enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova® Black chronograph counters Baton-type hours and minutes hands, rhodium-plated and enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova® Rhodium-plated red-tipped arrow-type seconds hand with eagle feather-shaped counterweight Rhodium-plated red-tipped chronograph counter hands (white for the small seconds) White and red transfers | Functions Central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock with hand making semi-instantaneous jumps Aperture-type date indication between 4 and 5 o'clock making semi-instantaneous jumps Chronograph with flyback function 12-hour counter at 9 o'clock Small seconds at 6 o'clock Tachymeter Stop-seconds function Strap and buckle Black rubber strap with titanium insert Pin buckle in titanium Ref. 298609-3008 - in grade 5 titanium with Rhône Blue dial A Chopard Boutique exclusive #wherethewatchesarethestars
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CHOPARD Alpine Eagle watches presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#chopard #chopardluc #qualitefleurier #watchesandwonders2024 @chopard @watchesandwondersofficial As the latest addition to the L.U.C collection, the new L.U.C XPS Forest Green is a contemporary fusion of considered materials in Lucent Steel™ Chopard's exclusive alloy featuring advanced properties, produced with a recycling rate of at least 80% - and technical watchmaking with in-house L.U.C Calibre 96. 12-L. Exuding a sense of depth and refinement, the satin-brushed dark green dial is achieved by PVD treatment. This sector-type watch face with its precise divisions and intricate detailing adds a touch of vintage sophistication, making the timepiece both contemporary and classic. The sector-type dial design sits between the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements, with the concentric circles typical of the former and the functionality of the latter. It adopts a time-only dial layout, giving it both intrigue and aesthetic depth. While there is no hard and fast dictionary definition, a true sector-type dial should feature two concentric rings, one for the minutes and another for the hours The hours and minutes markers should be radial lines running between the inner and outer edges of the rings - creating the "sectors". The 1930s saw the popularisation of this dial design among several Manufactures, often using the same dial makers. This style continued through the 1940s and into the 1950s, before falling out of favour in the 1960s and making a big comeback in recent years - witness the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier presented by Chopard Manufacture in 2005. The magic lies in the combining of this distinctive layout with a Forest Green dial and contrasting off-white markers. The L.U.C 96.12-L is an ultra-thin calibre measuring just 3.30 mm thick, featuring a bidirectional 22-carat gold micro-rotor and twin stacked barrels (Chopard Twin Technology) providing a generous 65-hour power reserve. Visible through the caseback, the bridges are beautifully finished with a Côtes de Genève motif and bevelling. The 'S' in the XPS acronym refers to the small seconds at 6 o'clock. This is required by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, which uses this display to evaluate the precision of the movements it certifies, ensuring the average daily rate of the watch is between -4 and +6 seconds. It corresponds to the fundamental token of elegance sometimes referred to as the politeness of kings: punctuality. L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel™ Case Lucent Steel™ Total diameter 40.00 mm Thickness 7.20 mm Water resistance 30 metres Crown in Lucent Steel™ with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm Polished case-middle and case-back Satin-brushed case flanks Glare-proofed sapphire crystal Exhibition back Movement Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.12-L Number of components 172 Total diameter 27.40 mm Thickness 3.30 mm Number of jewels 29 Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Power reserve 65 hours Winding via a micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold Two barrels - Chopard Twin technology Flat terminal curve Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif Chronometer-certified (COSC) Dial and hands: Forest Green brass dial with sunburst satin-brushed finish Off-white transfers Rhodium-plated Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands Rhodium-plated triangular small seconds hand Functions and displays Central display of the hours and minutes Small seconds at 6 o'clock Stop-seconds function Strap and buckle: Hand-sewn brown calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching Pin buckle in Lucent Steel ™ Ref. 168629-3001 - in Lucent Steel ™ #wherethewatchesarethestars
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CHOPARD L.U.C XPS Forest Green + L.U.C XPS Qualité Fleurier presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#iwcwatches #iwcportugieser #watchesandwonders2024 @iwcwatches @watchesandwondersofficial IWC Schaffhausen has refined its timelessly elegant Portugieser watches on every level and presents a new collection of the Portugieser Automatic 42 and the Portugieser Automatic 40. All watches feature a carefully reworked case construction with a slender side profile, making them visually light and more elegant. The double box-glass on the front and back offer an even better view of the new dials and the IWCmanufactured movements inside. The dials are the result of an elaborate and highly complex process. The brass bases are either treated with a sunburst finish or given a finely blasted surface before the colour is applied. The key to their unusually pronounced optical depth is the application of 15 layers of lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. The three-dimensional effect is further emphasised by the printing, which is carried out in a special procedure and adds to the sensation of depth. To finish, the appliques are individually hand mounted. Finally, the dial graphics have also been carefully reworked for a perfect balance of lightness, elegance and legibility. The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371626) features a Horizon blue dial. Horizon is a light blue shade, reminiscent of the early afternoon sky when the sun bathes everything in a bright light. This colour is complemented by a polished and brushed 18-carat white gold case, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, and a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371625) impresses with its Obsidian black dial, an 18-carat 5N gold case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to the lacquer finish, the dial emanates an incredible depth. The combination of black and gold symbolises the night sky with the shining stars. The chronograph is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371624) with a Dune dial is paired with a stainless steel case, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, and a black alligator leather strap. This combination reflects the mood in the evening when the sun is about to set, and the night begins. Thanks to the elaborate lacquer finish, the gold appliques appear to be floating above the dial. The Portugieser Automatic is distinguished by its balanced dial design with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock. With the new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017), IWC Schaffhausen now launches a timeless and modern instrument dress watch, which fully retains the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW50001) from the year 2000. - 18-carat white gold case, Horizon blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, gradient blue calfskin strap from Santoni with 18-carat white gold folding clasp (Ref. IW501708) - 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat 5N gold folding clasp (Ref. IW501707) Stainless steel case, Dune dial, gold-plated hands gold appliques, black alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501705) - Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, black alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501701) - Stainless steel case, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, stainless steel bracelet (Ref. IW501704) The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503703) features an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon blue dial, and rhodium-plated hands and appliques. It is fitted with a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503704) has an 18-carat white gold case, a Dune coloured dial, and gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. It is combined with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503702) boasts a case made of 18-carat Armor Gold®, an Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to an improved microstructure, Armor Gold® is considerably harder and more wear- resistant than conventional 5N gold. This model is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503701) impresses with an 18-carat Armor Gold® case, a silver- plated dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. This fourth timepiece is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap from Santoni. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Portugieser. New cases and beautiful dials presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#ferdinandberthoud #chopard #watchesandwonders2024 @FerdinandberthoudCh @chopard @watchesandwondersofficial Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud…. Each wheel, bridge and screw is entirely hand-decorated. An extraordinary level of manual finishing has been applied in order to reveal the beauty of each component. Placed end to end, all the angles of the wheels and their bridges, as well as those revealed at the heart of the 9 o'clock power-reserve display, represent more than two linear metres filed and polished by hand. The finishing of the bridges and mainplate is specific to this new model named FB RES – standing in French for "Remontoir d’Égalité Squelette”. 38 personalised calibres Peak precision At the heart of this timepiece beats the Calibre FB-RES.FC, regulated by fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire. The purpose of this full-fledged chronometric complication is to even out the energy coming from the barrel and transmitted to the escapement. The device relies on a spring positioned between the two organs. It temporarily stores a small amount of energy, which is then delivered to the balance. The charge/discharge frequency of this buffer energy is very short: one second. It is this sequential impulse that the large central seconds hand beats off, connected to the “remontoir d’égalité” via an intermediate wheel. It therefore advances in one-second jumps: this is a true-beat mechanism also known as a deadbeat second and generated directly by the remontoire. All these mechanical intricacies are almost entirely visible through the back of the FB RES. CASE • Dynamometric crown (decoupling system) • Case-back fitted with a “chevee” sapphire crystal pane glare-proofed on both sides. • Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides DIAL • Openworked nickel silver decorative plate topping the mainplate (dial): Possible finishes: vertical satin-brushed or sandblasted Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or blue • Circular satin-brushed seconds inner bezel ring surrounding the dial Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or silver-toned • Mirror-polished stainless-steel gear-train bridges between 3 and 6 o’clock • Power-reserve indication with “0_1” engraving on a 9 o’clock bridge visible on the dial side HANDS • Dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold • Central sweep-seconds hand in brass • Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold STRAP AND BUCKLE • Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request • Length-adjustable double-blade folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request FUNCTIONS • Hours and minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance MOVEMENT • Calibre FB-RES.FC: mechanical manual-winding movement, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and one-second remontoire Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  37.30 mm Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.37 mm Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  16 ½ Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 hours TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS      • Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission        Inverted and suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)        Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system • Regulating organ        Two-arm variable-inertia Ferdinand Berthoud balance wheel fitted with 4 integrated adjustment screws        Balance-spring with hand-crafted Phillips outer terminal curve (steel alloy)        Swiss lever escapement        15-toothed escape-wheel • “Remontoir d’égalité” mechanism        One-second winding        Three-toothed stop wheel        Triple-sided cam in hand-crafted synthetic ruby Flat spiral spring (steel alloy) Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 (including the chain) Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790 components Chain length      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 mm Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 DECORATIONS • Nickel silver bridges fitted on stylised stainless-steel pillars, decorated according to dial design • Hand-finishing according to the highest watchmaking standards Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC #wherethewatchesarethestars
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Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RES presented at Watches and Wonders 2024

April 9, 2024 7:30 am

#bulgari #octofinissimo #watchesandwonders2024 @bvlgariofficial @watchesandwondersofficial BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA COSC new world record and COSC chronometer certification Consider the significance of a 1.70 mm thickness - a ninth world record that introduces a novel standard in watchmaking. This new Octo Finissimo Ultra is not only the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced: it is also the world's thinnest COSC chronometer. This milestone reflects a rigorous process, underscored by a commitment to reevaluate, and transcend the conventions of traditional high watchmaking, propelling venerable craftsmanship into a contemporary context. The outcome is notable: the unparalleled design of watch becomes evident upon first glance, prompting reflection on the innovation behind its creation. How is this even possible? The journey to this record was formidable, beginning with the task of reconciling extreme slimness with robustness. Creating the world's thinnest mechanical watch isn't possible by building solely on existing concepts. It requires a paradigm shift, starting anew from the ground up. This is precisely what Bvigari accomplished with the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra and its remarkable thickness of only 1.80 mm in 2022. Emboldened by this achievement and convinced the limits had not been reached, Bvlgari's R&D department, in collaboration with Concepto (experts in complex mechanisms), decided to push the envelope further still. Like a sprinter achieving a new personal best, each fraction of improvement demanded exponential effort. Surpassing already historic achievements is a testament to the power of innovation, determination and the ability to question established norms. Given that the limits of movement slimness had already been reached with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, achieving an even slimmer profile for the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC involved a rework of the case by optimizing the sapphire crystal. Through patient, meticulous incremental steps, the engineers were able to shave off that critical tenth of a millimeter - and establish a new world record. In terms of the overall structure, the case back serves as the mainplate, upon which the 170 components of the manually wound BVL180 manufacture caliber are assembled. These components are selected using 1/10-micron optical measuring systems, so as to be able to select the parts that are closest to the perfect dimension, in order to exceed the precision of production resources. This COSC-certified mechanical movement introduces another layer of complexity and marks a first for the Ultra line. The challenge of ensuring adequate rigidity for a watch measuring 40 mm in diameter and just 1.70 mm thick was met by crafting case back/mainplate from particularly dense, hard and ultra-resistant tungsten carbide. Moreover, to maximize the use of the watch's surface area, the hour and minute dials, the large barrel - with a 50-hour power reserve - and the escapement cleverly play with the circular geometry of the bezel opening, adjusting it ever so slightly. An exceptional watch needs an exceptional case: with the case dedicated to the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Bulgari reinvents the experience of setting and winding its watch. If you don't want to use traditional methods, you can place your watch in the dedicated case, equipped with a digital display. The desired time is then programmed, and the adjustment cycle launched at the touch of a button. In a matter of seconds, the watch is perfectly adjusted and wound with impeccable precision. It's like having a watchmaker at home. As a hallmark of its era, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (104081), a new milestone in the history of watchmaking, is being introduced in limited series of 20 pieces. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (Only 1,70 mm thick!!) presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 8, 2024 11:00 am

#bulgari #bulgariocto #watchesandwonders2024 @bvlgariofficial @watchesandwondersofficial BVLGARI Осто Roma Automatic & Chronograph. The philosophy on the use of black in Bvigari's watch designs is based on the idea that black is much more than merely the absence of color - it's a way of expressing both light and depth. It possesses a unique ability to enhance shapes, materials, and textures, offering an intensity and contrast that enrich the inherent aesthetic of each piece - as French artist Pierre Soulages so brilliantly demonstrates in his use of black paint, which he terms Outrenoir - ultrablack' or 'beyond black. From the sheen of a lacquered black dial that both absorbs and reflects light, to the carbon veins that evoke noble marbling, or the smoothness of ceramic that captivates with its deep gloss - black is an infinite source for telling stories while arousing the senses. A hallmark of the Octo collection (with the first Ultranero piece launched in 2017), Bulgari's use of black is not just for its intrinsic elegance, but also for its ability to transform designs. This is exemplified through two new Octo Roma watches, a three-hand and a chronograph, both in 100% black DLC steel, fully black. Thus, every component is designed to capture light through its shape. surface texture, and finishes. Both pieces share the same Octo Roma DNA: a steel case with a design geometry that draws inspiration from the principles of ancient Roman architecture; two interchangeable straps, an in-house automatic movement with date that provides a 42-hour power reserve: and a screw-down crown with a ceramic insert for certified water resistance up to 100 meters. The automatic three-hand and date version offers a fresh take while remaining true to the original spirit of the Octo Roma. The piece maintains its 41mm diameter and features a sober, unencumbered dial that gives the Clous de Paris pattern, so characteristic of the Octo Roma, the space to unfold its mesmerizing effect. This subtle relief design, a time-honored hallmark of Swiss Haute Horlogerie, receives a surprisingly modern interpretation here, with the black DLC finish lending it a dual nature: from a distance, its black appearance is perfectly uniform; up close, however, each pyramid-shaped Clou de Paris captures light from its own unique angle, giving it a distinctive reflection. The dial comes alive, a private visual delight for its beholder. It is at night that this dark finish shines brightest: indices and hands are filled with luminescent material, as are the collection's two iconic hour markers — the "12" and the "6" that adorn each three-hand dial of an Octo Roma. The in-house BVL 191 movement, whose oscillating mass finished with Côtes de Genève graining can be admired through the sapphire case back, provides the Octo Roma Automatic with a 42-hour power reserve. The piece, available from July 2024, will come with two straps: textured rubber echoing the Clou de Paris pattern on the dial: and black alligator. The Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC presents a different vibe. Sportier, it comes in a slightly larger case measuring 42 mm. This size gives the bicompax chronograph layout more space to stand out. The Start/Stop and Reset pushers have been carefully integrated into the case, directly extending from the lugs, to maintain the Octo Roma line's contemporary design. Shape, function, and ergonomics merge into a cohesive and harmonious whole, arranged according to the tenets of Roman architecture. The Octo Roma Chronograph faithfully reproduces the complication's original design, with a small seconds at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock - and a large central seconds-hand. A discreet date window is positioned at 4:30. Powering this watch is Bulgaris in-house automatic Caliber BVL 399, which beats at 28.800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve. For enhanced readability, the three counters sport a sunburst finish, while the hour-markers and hands are luminescent. For the first time, the Octo Roma Chronograph is unveiled in a completely monochrome, sporty. sleek, and refined style. It is paired with a rubber strap with a Clous de Paris texture, mirroring the dial. Additionally, a black alligator strap, also provided, elevates the sport-chic aesthetic if and when a touch of elegance is de rigueur. The two straps are easily interchangeable thanks to the quick-release system. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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BVLGARI Octo Roma + BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Sketch presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 8, 2024 11:00 am

#glashutte #perpetualcalendar #PTBTO @GlashuetteOriginal Launched by GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL in 2016, the SENATOR EXCELLENCE product line bears its name with good reason. When the German manufactory’s engineers, watchmakers and designers created these timepieces, they kept the highest standards for stability, precision, running time and beauty in mind. An in-house trial lasting 24 days puts the quality of every single timepiece to the test. Altogether, there are four models in the SENATOR EXCELLENCE line, available in different versions: a spectacular Perpetual Calendar, an elegant version with moon phase display, and two minimalist variants with Panorama Date or three hands. As for grand complications, GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL now offers even greater variety: two new Perpetual Calendar models and two additional versions with Panorama Date and moon phase displays have been added to the collection. The perpetual calendar is one of watchmaking’s greatest challenges, and the moon phase one of its most beautiful displays. These traditional complications find a perfect fit within the signature look of the SENATOR EXCELLENCE line, where they are presented with elegance and clarity. In satin-brushed/polished red gold or stainless steel cases, two new dials with fine- grained surfaces provide a perfectly balanced backdrop for the clearly arranged displays. The red gold version presents a galvanic silver dial with ivory-coloured accents, the stainless steel variant a galvanic grey dial with blue elements. Also new are the applied indexes in solid gold. Together, the velvety surface texture and the raised, hand-mounted indexes lend fascinating visual depth to the watch face. Straps in brown nubuck leather, dark blue fabric or blue Louisiana alligator leather are perfectly matched to the colours of the watches. Ticking within these watches are state-of-the-art versions of the renowned Calibre 36, whose exceptional technical properties have been widely celebrated. Both offer at least 100 hours of power reserve and feature an antimagnetic silicon balance spring. The new models with automatic manufactory movements also present newly designed skeletonised rotors with the brand’s signature Double-G logo and an oscillating mass in 21-carat gold. This makes it possible to offer expansive views of the elaborately decorated movement, including such details as the hand-engraved balance cock. GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR EXCELLENCE PERPETUAL CALENDAR Reference number: 1-36-12-02-05-62 Movement: Automatic Calibre 36-12, finely finished Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, moon phase, Panorama Date Frequency: 28,800 A/h, equivalent to 4 Hz Case: Red gold 5 N, case back with sapphire crystal, water resistant to 5 bar Dimensions: Diameter: 42 mm, height: 12.8 mm Dial: Galvanic silver with fine-grained embossing and applied indexes in solid gold 5 N Hands: Hours/minutes: red gold 5 N, seconds: blue PVD, leap year indicator: blued steel Strap: Brown Louisiana alligator nubuck leather, red gold clasp Reference number: 1-36-12-03-02-64 Movement: Automatic Calibre 36-12, finely finished Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, moon phase, Panorama Date Frequency: 28,800 A/h, equivalent to 4 Hz Case: Stainless steel, case back with sapphire crystal, water resistant to 5 bar Dimensions: Diameter: 42 mm, height: 12.8 mm Dial: Galvanic grey with fine-grained embossing and applied indexes in solid gold 5 N, blue coating Hands: Hours/minutes: blued steel, seconds: blue coating, leap year indicator: blued steel Straps: Blue Louisiana alligator leather or blue fabric strap, stainless steel clasp GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SENATOR EXCELLENCE PANORAMA DATE MOON PHASE Reference number: 1-36-24-02-05-62 Movement: Automatic Calibre 36-24, finely finished Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase, Panorama Date Frequency: 28,800 A/h, equivalent to 4 Hz Case: Red gold 5 N, case back with sapphire crystal, water resistant to 5 bar Dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm, height: 12.2 mm Dial: Galvanic silver with fine-grained embossing and applied indexes in solid gold 5 N Hands: Hours/minutes: red gold 5 N; seconds: blue PVD Strap: Brown Louisiana alligator nubuck leather, red gold clasp Reference number: 1-36-24-02-02-64 Movement: Automatic Calibre 36-24, finely finished movement Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase, Panorama Date Frequency: 28,800 A/h, equivalent to 4 Hz Case: Stainless steel, case back with sapphire crystal, water resistant to 5 bar Dimensions: Diameter: 40 mm, height: 12.2 mm Dial: Galvanic grey with fine-grained embossing and applied indexes in solid gold 5 N with blue coating Hands: Hours/minutes: blued steel, seconds: blue coating Straps: Blue Louisiana alligator or blue fabric strap, stainless steel clasp #wherethewatchesarethestars
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Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar & Panorama Date Moon Phase Line Extension

February 17, 2024 2:23 pm

#blancpain #fiftyfathoms #techdiving @blancpain The BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS is the fortunate outcome of a dive whose consequences could have been quite different. One day when then Blancpain co-CEO and passionate diver JEAN-JACQUES FIECHTER was diving in his favorite resort of Cannes in the south of France, he suddenly ran out of air. This dramatic and pivotal experience made him realise the extent to which divers needed a time-measuring instrument tailored to the needs of scuba diving, and led him to create the Fifty Fathoms. Its self-winding mechanism; its resistance to magnetism; its watertightness to at least 10 bar; along with its XXL luminescent hour-markers contrasting with the dark dial represented a set of key elements presented on the early 1950s model. The crown fitted with a double watertight seal; the case-back sealing system (to prevent any distortion of the O-ring when the case is fitted); as well as the lockable rotating bezel would all be patented. The functions, features and performance of this model led the main armed forces of the day (France, Germany, the United States and Norway...) to adopt this timepiece for their combat divers. The relevance of Jean-Jacques Fiechter's ideas was such that the Fifty Fathoms became the archetypal diving watch for the entire watch industry at the time – and remains so this day. But the story doesn't end there. Although this timepiece established the fundamentals for safe diving, in the 1950s Jean-Jacques Fiechter also developed a moisture indicator, an additional safety feature whose purpose was to provide divers with the confirmation that the watch had not been damaged by another diver on a previous mission. Appearing on the dial of the MIL-SPEC watches in 1957 – some of whose variants are among the rarest and most sought-after timepieces by collectors – this moisture indicator was part of the specifications of the US Navy, which regarded this model as the only one to meet all the strict criteria laid down for its underwater missions. The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 pays tribute to that watch. It is immediately apparent that this third anniversary timepiece is indeed inspired by its non-magnetic parent used by the US Navy. The matt black dial with vintage Super-LumiNova®-enhanced moisture indicator and hour-markers; the unidirectional rotating bezel with black ceramic insert featuring a vintage Super-LumiNova® diving scale; as well as the two-tone NATO strap featuring the colour code of the original timepiece and made from fishing nets recovered from the oceans are all features that demonstrate their close kinship. The Tech Gombessa watch designed to measure the duration of up to three-hour-long tech dives or exits from a saturation system. Conceived five years ago by the two divers, this watch has been extensively tested. Unlike the bezels on conventional diver’s watches, the bezel on the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa has a three-hour scale. It is linked to a special hand that completes one full turn in three hours and whose material and colour – a white luminescent coating with green emission – match those of its markers. This device invented jointly by Marc A. Hayek and Laurent Ballesta is a world first for which a patent has been filed. It is the heart of the 13P8 self-winding move- ment, based on the same criteria of reliability and robustness that have made the Fifty Fathoms the ultimate diver’s watch for 70 years. Once the combination of bezel and movement was defined, it was time to tackle the exterior of this new watch designed to plumb the depths. Grade 23 titanium was chosen for the case. Recently introduced to the Blancpain collections, this metal also known as grade 5 ELI (extra low inter- stitials) is the purest type of titanium available. It is distinguished by exceptional strength and anti- allergenic properties, while being remarkably light. This material ensures that the watch is comfortable to wear and guarantees a barely-there feel on the wrist despite the 47 mm diameter. This is especially true since the watch features – in a first for Blancpain – central lugs attached from the inside of the case middle and integrating the strap. Water-resistant to 30 bar, the case is equipped with a helium valve. To kick off the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms the Manufacture was unveiling three series are once again being produced, this time each comprising 70 watches. Each series is dedicated to a region of the world – EMEA, Asia-Pacific, the Americas – and bears a number from I to III on the dial. The watch case is made of polished steel and measures 42 mm. This is an exclusive diameter, as no contemporary Fifty Fathoms has ever yet been offered in this size. #wherethewatchesarethestars #diving #navyseals #navy
YouTube Video 7eLB6VHWj2I

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms. The Art of Diving since the early 1950s. Act I, II and III in ONE video.

January 24, 2024 3:02 pm

#frederiqueconstant #perpetualcalendar #tourbillon @frederiqueconstant Frederique Constant unveils a limited-edition version of its Manufacture Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. 2023 will be a year to remember for Frederique Constant. To celebrate its thirty-fifth anniversary, as well as the fifteenth anniversary of its Manufacture tourbillon, the Geneva firm has unveiled a new highly limited edition in its Highlife collection: the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. Thirty-five pieces are being released sporting a blue dial housed in an 18-carat pink gold case. The two historic complications benefit from all the modernity characteristic of the Highlife collection, including its integrated and interchangeable strap. Combining the best of tradition and innovation, the timepiece bears witness to the ongoing progress of a manufactory dedicated to watchmaking excellence. Born in 1999, the Highlife collection has been a major part of the Frederique Constant story and returned centre stage in 2020. Younger generations and veteran collectors alike have been drawn to the contemporary lines of the collection’s case, the alternating satin and polished finishes, and more especially its integrated, interchangeable strap – each Highlife watch systematically comes with at least one additional strap. Now, the Highlife collection is reaching higher still. This highly limited edition of just 35 pieces is a new Manufacture version that combines two distinguished complications: a Tourbillon and a Perpetual Calendar, both housed in an 18-carat rose gold case just 41 millimetres in diameter – rightly so, for purists will not settle for anything larger. The timepiece comes with interchangeable leather and rubber straps, allowing its owner to switch between classic and sporty looks in a tool-free change that takes just a few seconds to complete. The dial layout has been painstakingly designed. The day, date and month indications are at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock respectively, each with its own hand – or, in the case of the display at 12 o’clock, two: in addition to the month, another hand indicates leap years on a scale running from 1 to 3 – plus an ‘L’ marking leap years. Positioned at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon completes the arrangement, housed beneath a cut-out characteristic of the Maison’s style featuring an upper indentation so that it fits snugly into the layout of the perpetual calendar. This expansive aperture reveals the sophisticated escapement for which a patent application was first filed in 1801. Atop it sits the seconds hand, gliding above the balance wheel, blued screws and baseplate with its gold finish, engraved with each piece’s individual serial number. This carefully designed arrangement, featuring outstanding complications whose modernity is matched only by their setting, sits amid a dial imbued with the Highlife collection ethos, engraved with a globe complete with meridians and parallels. The hour markers are suspended, secured at their base to the flange displaying the minutes. The different dial sectors benefit from their own specific finishing (satin or sunburst) to ensure optimum readability. Similarly, the hours and minutes hands, which match the colour of the case, are coated with luminous material to ensure they can be read however dim the light. Lovers of fine Swiss Made watchmaking will also appreciate the sapphire caseback, revealing all the innermost workings of the FC-875 Manufacture calibre. Decorated with circular grained and Côtes de Genève finishes, it boasts a 38-hour power reserve and is guaranteed water resistant to 3 ATM. As it turns 35, Frederique Constant is still a young manufactory with almost boundless possibilities before it. In addition to its main collections, whose aim remains that of providing painstakingly produced yet affordable watches, the Maison has gradually added more elite timepieces destined for experienced collectors to its ranges. The Tourbillon and the Perpetual Calendar are undeniably among their most prized complications. Frederique Constant thus continues to look to the future as it seeks to produce ever more advanced watches, featuring increasingly sophisticated styling and finishes that are constantly being refined and enriched. Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Steel RRP 26’995€ incl. VAT. Limited to 88 pieces. Solid gold RRP 44’995€ incl. VAT. Limited to 35 pieces. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. Steel & Solid Gold.

December 7, 2023 3:00 pm

#frederiqueconstant #manufacture #wherethewatchesarethestars @frederiqueconstant Frederique Constant stands out as a Geneva manufacture that’s developed 31 calibers in-house in just 35 years old of existence. Founded as a family business in 1988, the independent Swiss watchmaking firm has become an essential player in Swiss Made fine watchmaking between the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Amid this unique success story, it’s never lost sight of its goal: making luxury watchmaking available at a fair price. The new Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture follows the same route, bringing to life Frederique Constant’s thirty-first Manufacture calibre, the FC-735. It’s the first calibre from the firm to offer a big date, a moon phase and a power reserve indicator – now for a total of 50 hours., The latter is indicated at 9 o’clock by a slim, dedicated hand traveling along an arc marked out from 0 to 50, ending in a red zone warning that it’s time to wind the watch before it stops. Opposite, between 2 and 3 o’clock, the big date proudly displays its encircled double window (one for tens and the other for units). This perfect balance is further highlighted by a radiant, poetic moon phase at 6 o’clock on a starry blue background. Like all its previous calibres, Frederique Constant has taken care to ensure this one is easy to use: the three complications, time set function and winding mechanism are all adjusted via the crown at 3 o’clock. With no pushers, correctors or styluses, the FC-735 movement is resolutely modern. Well thought-out and designed for everyday use, it’s an extension of the Frederique Constant ethos: affordable watches that don’t require any special horological skills on the part of the wearer. The three complications are harmoniously arrayed within the firm’s Classic case. With a diameter of only 40mm in observance of watchmaking standards, this benefits from a recent styling overhaul including re-dimensioned lugs and profile, as well as slimmer hour markers. The latter, together with the hands, are diamond-faceted and hand-polished. The case also sports an open back, allowing each collector to admire the inner workings of their new FC-735 Manufacture calibre. To celebrate the arrival of Frederique Constant’s thirty-first Manufacture calibre and its thirty-fifth anniversary, the Firm has decided to create not one but four variations of its new Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture. The aim is to meet the needs and preferences of seasoned collectors whilst also offering lovers of fine watchmaking two other versions. The first, most exclusive version is being released in a limited edition of 35 in honour of the Swiss watchmaker’s thirty-fifth anniversary. Its fully-polished platinum case houses a meteorite dial, a rare composition for Frederique Constant in honour of the release of the FC-735 calibre, on a navy blue alligator strap matching the colour of the dial. The second model, on a brown alligator strap, features a rose gold case and sun-brushed grey dial and is a limited edition of 350. Alongside those, Frederique Constant is adding two variations of the new Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture to its collection. These non-limited versions share the same polished steel case and blue alligator leather strap, with a sun-brushed dial available in a blue or silver finish. This thirty-first Manufacture calibre is the latest addition to a family that already boasts a wealth of developments and complications. Here tribute must be paid to the pioneer: the FC-910 introduced in 2004, showcasing the firm’s signature Heart Beat design. Four years later, the completion of the FC-980 calibre had long been awaited by collectors, featuring as it did the first Tourbillon Heart Beat, equipped with an escapement wheel and silicon anchor. Another major milestone was achieved with the ‘Worldtimer Manufacture’ FC-718 in 2012, unanimously acclaimed for its reliability and above all its simplicity, with all of the functions adjusted using just the crown. 2013 saw the release of the FC-705, the Slimline collection’s iconic calibre featuring a moon phase. Three years later, in 2016, it was the turn of the perpetual calendar, still the most affordable on the market. In 2017, there was a decisive technical step forward with the Flyback FC-760 chronograph, followed two years later by the FC-750, the first Hybrid Manufacture movement, combining a connected model with a Manufacture movement for the first time. 2021 marked a breakthrough not only for Frederique Constant but also for the watchmaking industry as a whole, in the form of the FC-810 calibre and its Monolithic escapement. This revolutionised the way mechanical watches are regulated, being equipped with a silicon oscillator instead of the 26 components of a conventional assembly. It beats at 40Hz, ten times faster than a traditional mechanical movement. www.frederique-constant.com #elonmusk #briancranston
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FREDERIQUE CONSTANT Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture. 31st Manufacture Calibre!

December 2, 2023 9:52 am

#streamliner #hmoserandcie #wherethewatchesarethestars @HMoserAndCieWatches Made of steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, the cushion-shaped case of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel model is still water-resistant to 120 m (393 ft) and inspired by the curves and roundness of the first high-speed trains of the 20s and 30s, from which it takes its name. However, its proportions have been reworked to give it more elongated lines, made possible by the smaller dimensions of the new calibre HMC 500. Integrated into the case, the steel bracelet is elegantly arced to extend the curves of the case. Highly complex in construction, it has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. The links, all unique and articulated, are the height of subtle sophistication, and supple flexibility. To accentuate the steel of the case and bracelet, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen a Grand Feu enamel dial. Named "Aqua Blue", it reinterprets the brand's renowned signature fumé finish with the artistic flourish of a master craftsman. Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, three different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation. A translucent "Grand Feu" enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the fumé effect, where the lighter shades in the centre gradually deepen. Each dial is unique. Steel applique indices punctuate the edge of the dial, which features no logo. To display the hours and minutes, the three-dimensional hands made from two sections feature inserts with Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super- LumiNova®. The offset small seconds is displayed at 6 o'clock on a lacquered sub-dial with a circular pattern, offering a beautiful contrast with the base dial. Driving the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel model, the new automatic calibre HMC 500 is 100% Moser, 100% Manufacture-made. It is the smallest movement H. Moser & Cie. has developed in the 21st century. Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., reflects on the development of this movement: "Our starting objective was to have a movement that was slim yet high performance. We then spent a great deal of time working to optimise the dimensions, which is why we decided to integrate a micro-rotor for the first time in our history. Made from solid platinum, this micro-rotor is mounted on a ball bearing, equipped with a bi-directional pawl winding system, and offers sufficient barrel torque to provide a power reserve of 74 hours. We have had to develop new smaller, slimmer components and mechanisms which could then be integrated into the available volume. The escapement was also miniaturised, whilst ensuring its performance remained unchanged, a technical feat made possible thanks to the expertise of our sister company, Precision Engineering AG. Because of the volume, the torque and the winding system, this was no easy task, but the result is a movement which will serve as a base for our small cases, and will enable us to introduce new complications, by combining it with modules developed in-house or in collaboration with our partner Agenhor". The calibre HMC 500 features open bridges with a highly contemporary finish, decorated with the traditional Moser stripes and an anthracite grey coating. The company hallmark is proudly showcased on the micro-rotor. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – STREAMLINER SMALL SECONDS BLUE ENAMEL Reference 6500-1200, steel model, Aqua Blue fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet Case Steel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal Diameter: 39.0 mm Height without sapphire crystal: 9.3 mm; Height with sapphire crystal: 10.9 mm See-through case-back Screw-in crown adorned with an "M" Water-resistant to 12 ATM / 120 m / 393 ft Dial Aqua Blue fumé "Grand Feu" enamel with hammered texture Applique indices Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts Lacquered small seconds sub-dial with a circular pattern Movement Automatic calibre HMC 500, partially skeletonised Diameter: 30.0 mm or 13 ¼ lignes Height: 4.5 mm Frequency: 21,600 A/h (= 3 Hz) 26 jewels Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system Solid platinum micro-rotor engraved with the H. Moser hallmark Power reserve: minimum of 74 hours Original Straumann® hairspring Finish with Moser stripes Functions Hours and minutes Small seconds at 6 o'clock Strap/bracelet Integrated steel bracelet Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo Price 29.900 CHF including taxes in CH
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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel. Aqua Blue Fumé Dial. The Saga Continues.

November 21, 2023 4:52 pm

#mbandf #wherethewatchesarethestars #architect @Mbandf Introducing the MB&F Horological Machine Nº11 Architect. The Horological Machines of MB&F have established a reputation for increasing the sophistication of shaped sapphire crystal components used in watchmaking, and Horological Machine Nº11 is no exception. There are six externally facing sapphire crystal components in the case of HM11, the largest of which consists of two separate sapphire crystal domes stacked concentrically to form the transparent atrium roof of HM11. Dome skylights feature prominently in 1970s residential architecture, a result of that period’s fascination with injection-moulded acrylics and adventurous design. HM11 Architect is available: - in Grade 5 titanium with blue dial plate limited to 25 pieces; - in Grade 5 titanium with red gold dial plate limited to 25 pieces. Engine Three-dimensional horological engine featuring bevel gears, composed of a flying tourbillon, hours and minutes, a power reserve indicator and temperature measurement, developed in-house by MB&F. Mechanical movement, manual winding (by turning the entire case clockwise). Power reserve: 96 hours Balance frequency: 18’000bph/2.5Hz Plates: Blue and 5N PVD treatment Number of movement components: 364 components Number of jewels: 29 jewels Functions/indications Hour and minutes Power reserve Temperature (-20 to 60° Celsius, or 0 to 140° Fahrenheit) Case Grade 5 titanium Display markers: conical rods in stainless steel (Ø 0.50mm to 0.60mm), darker beads in polished titanium and lighter beads in polished aluminium (Ø 1.30mm to 2.40mm). Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 23mm height Number of case components: 92 components Water resistance: 20m / 68’ / 2ATM Sapphire crystals Sapphire crystals on top, back, and on each chamber-display treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces Sapphire crown Strap & Buckle Rubber strap – white for the blue model and khaki green for the red gold model Titanium tang buckle. Price 198.000 CHF without taxes each Founded in 2005, MB&F is the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. With almost 20 remarkable calibres forming the base of the critically acclaimed Horological and Legacy Machines, MB&F is continuing to follow Founder and Creative Director Maximilian Büsser’s vision of creating 3-D kinetic art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking. #worldpremier #creativity #stunning
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MB&F Horological Machine Nº11 Architect. Introducing a WORLD PREMIER!

November 15, 2023 2:00 pm

#PTBTO #glashuetteoriginal #senator @GlashuetteOriginal The GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Senator Collection is an integral part of the product portfolio. These sophisticated timepieces are an expression of the finest in German precision engineering. They combine mechanical complexity with traditional elements and elegant, timeless design. The new version of the GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Senator Chronometer adds a new facet to this collection: fresh and cool in silver-blue, it fuses traditional techniques with modern requirements. The dial and parts of the manual winding movement are silver plated by friction. In this elaborate process, a mixture of fine silver powder, salt and water is rubbed into a surface by hand, which lends it a fine, shimmering texture. These elements are then given a galvanic grey coating. Polished and traditional blued hands and appliques complete the design. The silver-blue colouring of the dial set the tone for designing the other aspects of the watch. The 42 mm case is fashioned in fine white gold, elaborately polished by hand and satin- brushed. Sapphire crystals on the front and back offer optimal views. The watch’s displays are arrayed on the dial in a particularly clear and harmonious manner: along with the central hour and minute hands, a small second appears, lightly recessed, at 6 o’clock. It is complemented by the German watchmaker’s signature Panorama Date at 3 o’clock, a running-time display and the discreet day/night indicator just below 12 o’clock: a black dot appears during the period from 6 in the evening until 6 in the morning. A dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with foldover clasp in white gold rounds off the elegant appearance of this watch. The watch movement inside the GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Senator Chronometer and responsible for its exceptional rate precision is the manufactory’s own Calibre 58-08 with manual winding. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 half-oscillations per hour and has a running time of 44 hours and 40 minutes. It is equipped, in addition, with a refined second-stop mechanism: when then crown is pulled out, the time display stops and the second’s hand is reset to zero and held in that position. When setting the time, the characteristic minute detent ensures that the minute hand jumps ahead from one minute index to the next with an audible haptic click – thus ensuring that the correct relationship between seconds and minutes is maintained at all times and allowing the time to be set precisely to the second. The manual winding GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Calibre 58-08 is also a visual delight. Through the sapphire crystal case back, the classic, finely finished features of the Glashütte art of watchmaking can easily be recognised: the characteristic three-quarter plate, screw-mounted gold chatons and the hand-engraved balance cock. They also adopted the historic high standards for quality and performance: in a strictly controlled 15-day test run, each model in this line is examined in five positions and three different temperatures by the independent Thuringian Office of Weights and Measures. They then take up their role as officially certified chronometers in the grand tradition of precision in everyday life. The new silver-blue version of the Senator Chronometer is available at all GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Boutiques and from selected retailers worldwide since August 2023. Model name: SENATOR CHRONOMETER Launch year: 2023 Reference number: 1-58-08-01-04-61 Movement: Manual winding, Calibre 58-08, silver plated by friction, galvanised grey, finely finished movement Functions: Hour, minute and small second, Panorama Date, running time display, day/night indicator, certified chronometer Frequency: 28,800 A/h, (= 4 Hz) Balance: Screw balance with 18 weighted screws, galvanic rhodium plating Spiral: Anachron Shock resistance: Incabloc Case: White gold, polished and satin-brushed, engraved case back with sapphire crystal Dimensions: Diameter: 42 mm, height: 11.4 mm Lug-to-Lug: 48.4 mm Water resistance: 50 meters (5 bar) Dial: Silver plated by friction, galvanised grey, Roman numeral appliques in solid gold with blue coating, railroad chapter ring and lettering printed in blue Dial blank material: Brass Hands: Steel, blued Strap: Dark blue Louisiana Alligator leather, white gold foldover clasp Price: 35.500 Euro (incl. 19 % VAT) #wherethewatchesarethestars
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GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Senator Chronometer. White Gold Case. Cool Silver Brilliance and Dark Blue.

September 27, 2023 4:33 pm

#tudorwatch #pelagos #Navy @TudorWatch The new TUDOR Pelagos FXD pays tribute to decades of TUDOR watches on the wrists of US Navy divers. Complete with fixed strap bars, a titanium case, a high-performance Manufacture Calibre and a unidirectional elapsed-time rotating bezel, it comes as the ultimate modern “Milsub”. As early as the mid ‘50s, TUDOR diving watches were being tested and evaluated by a number of outfits inside the US Navy, and by 1958 they were officially adopted by the Navy and purchased for the purpose of issuing them to divers operating in various units. This Pelagos FXD model is the spiritual successor of those watches. The nomenclature hints at the background of the watch, with FXD referring to the incredibly robust FiXeD strap bars of the case. The model represents a modern, high-performance and robust take on the famed “Milsub” (short for Military Submariner) of yesteryear. Visually, it’s most in line with a late ‘60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016; it incorporates elements from the US military specifications for diving watches, such as fixed spring bars, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners. KEY POINTS 1. 42mm satin-brushed titanium case with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block of titanium 2. Unidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert and 60-minute graduation filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material 3. Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material 4. Manufacture Calibre MT5602, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve 5. “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material filling 6. One-piece fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system in forest green with red central thread and additional one-piece rubber strap with embossed fabric motif TUDOR AND THE US NAVY The US Navy issued TUDOR diving watches for decades starting in the latter years of the ‘50s. The watches were famously used by SEAL teams from their commissioning in 1962 all the way the late ‘80s. These robust instruments have also served sailors in all types of underwater roles, including UDTs, Seabees and Navy dive school instructors. The issued TUDOR Submariners have played a role in teaching the basics of scuba diving at the Underwater Swimmers School, all the way to aiding in underwater submarine maintenance at submarine bases in the US and abroad. Issued TUDOR watches also played a role in pioneering innovative underwater technologies under the surface of oceans across the globe. Throughout the decades, TUDOR has supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches. In the 1965 “First Edition” of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928 is pictured next to the “Diving Watch” paragraph. The handbook was an essential piece of literature for new operators as they studied UDT operational procedures. Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual lists the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as “Navy-approved” diving watches. In 1974, the National Stock Number system was introduced to track the supply system of the US Department of Defense. From 1978, under code 6645-01-068-1088, a supply officer could purchase and issue a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, or later 76100, to an approved sailor or operator in need of a reliable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry was only retired in 2004. Watches issued to members of the military are typically engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches didn’t follow this pattern. There was never a force-wide, consolidated marking system. Instead, the issued watches were either sterile, or marked at the unit level, with many different coding typologies, most of which were used for inventory purposes. Since many of these watches issued by the US Navy remain unmarked, it makes it quite difficult for watch scholars of today to determine the military provenance of a given TUDOR, even though official records indicate that very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades. #wherethewatchesarethestars
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TUDOR Pelagos FXD. 42mm Titanium Case. Fixed Strap Bars. Black & White Dial. Ref. 25717N

September 20, 2023 9:40 pm