Extraordinary Design – Watchadvisor

Extraordinary Designs

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Inside Van Cleef & Arpels: Vision, Craft & Strategy – An Exclusive Interview

October 2, 2025 1:44 pm

Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, is reshaping the very definition of luxury. In this WatchAdvisor interview, he introduces the concept of “private luxury” — a refined, discreet, and no-show-off approach to elegance that speaks to true connoisseurs.
Since taking the lead at Parmigiani, Terreni has transformed the Maison into one of the most admired names in Haute Horlogerie, celebrated for its clean design language, uncompromising craftsmanship, and timeless vision. He explains how Parmigiani is redefining luxury by moving beyond ostentation and focusing instead on exclusivity, refinement, and authenticity.
Discover Guido Terreni’s creative philosophy, Parmigiani’s unique role in modern Haute Horlogerie, and why collectors are embracing this new vision of private luxury.

#WatchAdvisor #wherethewatchesarethestars #Parmigiani #GuidoTerreni #ParmigianiFleurier #LuxuryWatches #SwissWatches #HauteHorlogerie #WatchCollectors #WatchInterview #WatchIndustry #RedefiningLuxury #PrivateLuxury #WatchmakingExcellence #CreativeWatchmaking #horology

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Guido Terreni on Private Luxury – How Parmigiani Fleurier Redefines True Elegance | WatchAdvisor

August 29, 2025 11:37 am

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Cartier: The Icon of Style – Pierre Rainero on Heritage, Design & Timeless Success | WatchAdvisor

August 15, 2025 10:13 am

#jaegerlecoultre #reverso #ladieswatches @jaegerlecoultre
The 2025 JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ interpretations present an explosion of vivid enamel colours and brilliant-cut diamonds. Colourful bouquets of arums are created using the grand feu champlevé enamelling technique, a demanding five-step process that begins with the hollowing-out of the metal surface to leave only the outline of each flower or leaf. The shallow troughs are then filled with powdered glass enamel that must be fired at temperatures up to 800° Centigrade. Up to 10 coats of enamel and firings are necessary, one layer at a time, to achieve the desired tonal nuances, intensity and depth of colour. Requiring at least two years of rigorous training and experience to master this skill, an expert enameller knows almost instinctively the precise moment when the enamel must be removed from the kiln, to avoid flaws such as bubbles or cracks and – because pigments often change during the heating process – to acquire the desired colours.

For designs that incorporate diamonds, gem-setting can begin only after the enamel work is completed. This task is made more difficult because a gem-setter requires soft metal, whereas the pink gold has become hardened by the extreme heat of firing; it also requires an exceptional level of precision since the slightest mistake could compromise countless hours of enamelling work. To set the diamonds on the ‘Precious Flowers’ cases, both grain- and snow-setting techniques are used. Grain-setting frames the dial and highlights the geometry of the cases, while snow-setting transforms the metal areas between the flowers and leaves of the enamelled motif. Using diamonds of different sizes, in arrangements that are determined by the shape of the area to be set, the snow-setting technique creates an almost unbroken surface of light and sparkle that amplifies the fresh colours of the enamel.

To support the advancement of craft skills and sharing of ideas, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a dedicated atelier within the Manufacture where all Métiers Rares™ (Rare Handcrafts) are performed: gem-setting, engraving and a wide range of different enamelling techniques. It is by working in such close proximity that the various specialised artisans in this atelier are able to have the necessary discussions and exchanges throughout the entire process of transforming unadorned metal surfaces into magnificent pieces of jewellery.

In a lengthy and carefully orchestrated process, three different artistic techniques have been brought together to create the Green Arums model. The Green grand feu champlevé enamelling process alone requires 15 hours of meticulous crafting. Surrounding the flowers and foliage, a total of 409 diamonds (2.59 carats) have been patiently and expertly set using the snow- and grain-setting techniques – a process requiring 45 hours.

Contrasting with the bright green tones of the enamel and adding depth to the motif, black lacquer is applied among the flowers and leaves. In a process demanding absolute precision, fragments of lacquered material are cut into the exact shape and size of the spaces to be filled and are then fixed into place.

The Purple Arums interpretation offers a stunning cameo of purple, pink and green grand feu champlevé enamel, requiring a total of 30 hours to craft. The floral design wraps seamlessly around the case-sides, from the back to the bezel, covering curves and angles that add to the complexity of the artisans’ work, with snow-set diamonds covering the entire motif. With painstaking precision, a total of 637 diamonds (2.12 carats) are snow- and grain-set, requiring an additional 95 hours of work to complete.

Fixed by shiny alligator straps that complement the enamel colours, these timepieces also highlight La Grande Maison’s technical watchmaking mastery, as they are run by the hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846, a movement shaped by the Maison especially for the Reverso.

REVERSO ONE ‘PRECIOUS FLOWERS’ – GREEN ARUMS
Case: Pink gold 750/1000 (18k)
Watch dimensions: 40 x 20 mm x 9.09 mm
Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846
Power reserve: 50 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes
Dial: Mother-of-pearl
Caseback: Enamel, diamonds, lacquer
Diamonds: 409 brilliant-cut diamonds for 2.59 carats
Strap: Shiny green alligator
Reference: Q3292434
Limited edition of 10 pieces

REVERSO ONE ‘PRECIOUS FLOWERS’ – PURPLE ARUMS
Case: Pink gold 750/1000 (18k)
Watch dimensions: 40 x 20 mm x 9.09 mm
Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 846
Power reserve: 50 hours
Functions: hours and minutes
Dial: mother-of-pearl
Caseback: Enamel, diamonds
Diamonds: 637 brilliant-cut diamonds for 2.12 carats
Strap: shiny purple alligator
Reference: Q3292435
Limited edition of 10 pieces

#wherethewatchesarethestars #watchesandwonders2025

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO One ‘Precious Flowers’. Sheer beauty. 2025 Premiere

March 31, 2025 11:00 pm

#jaegerlecoultre #reverso #shahnameh @jaegerlecoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a series of four new Reverso Tribute Enamel timepieces that celebrate the origins of the Reverso in the sport of polo, capture the power and beauty of the horse, and pay homage to one of the world’s greatest works of literature and art – the Persian epic poem, Shahnameh. In tribute to the history of miniature painting, which originated in Persia, the caseback of each piece features a miniature reproduction of an illustration from the magnificent edition of the Shahnameh dedicated to Shah Tahmasp created in the 16th century. Just as the Reverso was born from polo, these timepieces tell a story within a story – capturing not only the essence of the game that inspired its creation but also paying homage to polo’s ancient Persian origins through the artistry of miniature enamel painting. The new timepieces combine four traditional crafts: miniature enamel painting, paillonnage, grand feu enamel and guillochage, reaffirming the skill and talents gathered together in La Grande Maison’s in-house Métiers Rares™ atelier in the Vallée de Joux.

Embracing this challenge, Jaeger-LeCoultre refined the ancestral enamelling technique, adapting it to the Reverso’s proportions and giving rise to some of the most intricate and evocative timepieces in its history. Over the decades, enameling has journeyed alongside the Reverso, continually evolving to celebrate different cultures and themes, ensuring that the art form remains at the heart of La Grande Maison’s creative expression. Dating back to 1936 and 1949, the Jaeger-LeCoultre museum holds two extraordinary examples of this craftsmanship: the Reverso ‘Indian Beauty’, depicting an Indian princess, and the Reverso ‘Rama’, representing the Hindu god Rama. These masterpieces mark the beginning of a rich artistic legacy that continues today with the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’.

The term Persian miniature painting refers specifically to paintings made on paper using opaque watercolours, ink, silver and various forms of gold. Despite the name, they are not miniature in size but are generally “book sized”, to be bound in with illuminated manuscripts. Miniature painting flourished in Persia from the 13th century onwards, reached its apotheosis in the 16th century – when the Shah Tahmasp Shahmaneh was created – and also made its way to Mughal India. This rich tradition of finely detailed, miniature artworks is the reason why such paintings were commissioned to be enamelled on the back of Reverso watches, offering a unique way to preserve and showcase these masterpieces while embracing the art of miniature painting in a wearable form. Persian miniatures are characterised by a flattened, multi-layered style rendered in bright and pure colours, with great attention to detail in the subjects’ costumes and the background landscapes or architecture.

Expressing the Maison’s vision of art and culture, the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ series reinterprets Persian miniature painting through four exceptional crafts – enamel miniature painting, grand feu enamelling, paillonnage and guillochage – in a magnificent showcase for the talents and skills being nurtured in the Manufacture’s in-house Métiers RaresTM atelier.

The first of many challenges in decorating the caseback was to miniaturise the original works – measuring 48 x 32 cm, drawn with the finest of lines and packed with tiny details – and reproduce them on a surface of 2 cm2. Moreover, the reproductions had to recreate the dreamlike feeling of a mythical world and the drama of the stories, and to replicate dozens of rich colours.

The enamel paintings are further elevated by the craft of paillonnage, where delicate pieces of fine gold leaf (24k, 999/1000) are carefully cut to match the shape and size of the desired motif, a tribute to the traditional technique of using gold leaf in the original Persian miniatures to achieve a rich, lustrous gold hue. The paillons (fragments) are then meticulously placed by hand on the surface to be enamelled. This highly skilled work requires 100 hours of miniature enamel painting and paillonnage for the creation of each caseback.

On the front dial of each watch, grand feu enamel is applied over a hand-guilloché base executed on a 100-year-old hand operated lathe – an evocative artistic response to the miniature paintings on the casebacks. The simplicity of the Reverso Tribute design codes places full value on the beauty of the guilloché pattern and the rich colour of the enamel.

#wherethewatchesarethestars #watchesandwonders2025

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’. Persian miniature painting. 2025 Premiere.

March 31, 2025 11:00 pm

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BOVET 1822. Behind the Scenes with Pascal & Keith. 95% in-house! Hard to believe...

August 1, 2024 3:22 pm

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BOVET 1822 The Récital 28 Prowess 1. Solving the terrestrial time problem with a world timer...

July 17, 2024 11:36 am

#hublot #hublotbigbang #watchesandwonders2024 @hublot @watchesandwondersofficial
HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire. Since 2016, the Hublot x Sang Bleu collaboration has seen the celebrated typographer, tattooist, artist, and founder of Sang Bleu, Maxime Plescia-Buchi, set down his indelible and distinct features, and stamp his three-dimensional geometry with both relief and depth onto Hublot watches. From the Big Bang in 2016 to Spirit of Big Bang in 2023, 2024 is once again making its mark. It has kept the Spirit of Big Bang, maintaining the 42 mm diameter and the soul of the barrel shape, while offering a different aesthetic finish. It is a watch that, even with its ultra-generous proportions and assertive shape, offers perfect ergonomics to suit all wrist sizes, both feminine and masculine. There's no change on the movement side, with the HUB4700, a skeletonized automatic chronograph with date at 4.30, 50-hour power reserve and its oscillating weight redesigned in the Sang Bleu style. The sapphire now extends from the dial – which already revealed the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement through the disc hands designed by Sang Bleu – to the case and the bezel, enhancing the watch’s organic design. The complexity of the design of the collection, plus the demanding geometry of Maxim Plescia-Buchi’s polygonal tattooing, meant that Hublot once again had to push back the boundaries of machining sapphire. Under the impact of the sapphire’s transparency, the purity of the Sang Bleu features, which remain sharp and methodical, expresses itself here in an ultra-light minimalist style, both visually and on the wrist. A fascinating and highly demanding material, whose total transparency required an absolutely perfect level of finish. Thanks to 3D machining and over 100 hours of work, the Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Sang Bleu is practically as hard and scratch-resistant as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 for diamonds). The only remaining non-transparent elements are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp, all cut out of titanium, and the components of the movement. Produced in a run of 100 pieces; making this a collector’s edition!

HUBLOT Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic. The Big Bang has introduced different variations of blue, grey and green. Then, in 2019, it presented a world first when the first brightly coloured ceramic was released: a vibrant red. The second of these achievements came in 2021, with a stunning yellow piece. But the Big Bang collector is not someone who is content with the status quo. Far from it! Hublot has therefore continued to innovate and develop new colors, the very latest of which is this orange. Developing an original ceramic color is as simple to say... as it is complex to achieve. The workload should not be underestimated: it requires in-depth research & development. Which additives are needed? In what proportions? What type of firing, at what temperature, and for how long? How can it be machined? Should it have a satin finish? Or polished? How resistant is it to impacts? What about scratches? What pressure? What chemical recipe? This is just a small part of the specifications that govern the development of a new ceramic. And every single aspect is exacting, as the standards guaranteed by Hublot for its ceramic are among the most stringent on the market. 100% internal expertise, patent-protected. The new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic follows in the footsteps of its predecessors. It offers a unique, perfectly uniform colour, whatever exterior component it is used to adorn. It is finished to a very high watchmaking standard, with a perfect mirror polish all over. A blend of high technology and savoir faire were necessary to achieve this level of excellence on all the components, due to their diverse shapes, thicknesses, and angles. Hublot has recreated the exact color of the ceramic for the indices, counters on the dial and hands, as well as for the integrated rubber strap. This strap features the patented "One-Click" system for quick, tool-free changes. This series is limited to 250 pieces. At its heart beats the Unico Chronograph Manufacture calibre. This is the very latest generation of the automatic flyback chronograph movement developed by Hublot. Guaranteeing a three-day power reserve (72 hours), it retains the same aesthetic signature: column wheel at 6 o'clock, bicompax layout (small seconds at 9 o'clock, 60-minute counter at 3 o'clock with integrated date), silicon escapement, and the always demonstrative and powerful skeleton architecture. The Unico sits inside the iconic Big Bang case. This version is 42 mm in diameter and features the famous 6 titanium 'H' shaped bezel screws and lugs on either side of the case that echo the design of a ship’s porthole.

#wherethewatchesarethestars

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HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire/Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic. Watches and Wonders 2024

May 27, 2024 2:04 pm

#Hublot #bigbang #watchesandwonders2024 @hublot @watchesandwondersofficial
Hublot's tenth Manufacture Piece (MP) revisits the fundamentals of watchmaking: no dial, hands or oscillating weight, instead a roller display, a circular power reserve and an inclined tourbillon automatic winding by two linear weights. This Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium will be no exception. With its rounded angles, sleek design and sapphire crystal of an unparalleled complexity, it houses a movement which is no less sophisticated. A fusion of form and substance. The mechanical and aesthetic power are inseparable – one of the key concepts guiding the MP collections. And at the point where they intersect, the Manufacture offers a bold reinvention of the classic watchmaking complications. These are avant-garde pieces which are resolutely disruptive in their movement, display and complications. But they are neither concepts nor exercises in style. Like all the other MPs, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium is a complete, accomplished and practical watch that will soon adorn the wrists of a select few collectors.

Instinctively, we seek to characterize the piece in the time-honored way...

Firstly through the figures, which make for impressive reading:
592 components,
5 years of R&D,
2 linear weights,
1 inclined tourbillon,
a circular power reserve,
for a model to be produced in a limited edition of just 50 pieces.

Next, its indications. Here, things get a little more complicated: The MP-10 has no hands. In their place are four constantly rotating displays: the hours and minutes in the upper third of the dial, combined with an invisible magnifying glass; the circular power reserve in the central third, with a very clear green zone and red zone; and the seconds in the lower third which are indicated directly on the tourbillon cage. It is made from monobloc aluminium, suspended and inclined, and a patent application is pending for this unique mechanical configuration.
The piece has no dial: Hublot has fused the calibre with the dial. The movement is the face and soul of the watch. The gaze is drawn directly to the mechanism to read the time. The MP-10 features a highly architectural design and a particularly expressive movement built around volume and depth. Yet, this in no way interferes with reading. Instead, it makes it simpler. The time is read from top to bottom, fluidly and naturally. The power reserve is particularly expressive, with a two-tone disc (red and green) set coaxially to the hours and minutes.
This design eliminates the traditional space constraints, which are usually dictated by a central display in a horizontal plane. The MP-10 can be easily read vertically: hours, minutes, power reserve then seconds. The movement of the eye is fluid and natural. The indications are aligned. They share the same white lacquer typography on black aluminium rollers. For each indication, the current time is read via a red triangular marker. Its winding system follows the same logic. A traditional movement is formed of a flat dial paired with an oscillating weight on the case-back side. However, this type of construction is incompatible with the MP-10. The piece has no dial or hands, it is not flat, and it is read vertically.

So, how is it wound? The engineers at Hublot retained the weight principle but verticalised it, just like the movement, then duplicated it. On either side of the central architecture sit two blocks of white gold, arranged on a vertical axis along which they are free to move. To prevent them from colliding with the banking, Hublot developed a system of shock absorbers. These two vertical weights engage a rack and are able to wind the movement bidirectionally – an exclusive Hublot development for which a patent is also pending, that gives the MP-10 a power reserve of more than 48 hours. The watch is wound manually via the crown at 12 o'clock, while the time is set using a second crown nestled on the case-back side to preserve the fluidity of the design.

The exterior is finally on a level with the movement. While the case construction is simple (two pieces, middle and case-back in shiny micro-blasted titanium), the sapphire crystal atop it is Hublot's most complex to date, and combines inclined planes on three axes. The same applies to the integrated rubber strap – also the most refined ever designed by the Manufacture. Until the next Manufacture Piece ...

#wherethewatchesarethestars

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HUBLOT MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium & more presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

May 9, 2024 2:54 pm

$#bulgari #octofinissimo #watchesandwonders2024 @bvlgariofficial @watchesandwondersofficial BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA COSC new world record and COSC chronometer certification Consider the significance of a 1.70 mm thickness - a ninth world record that introduces a novel standard in watchmaking. This new Octo Finissimo Ultra is not only the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced: it is also the world's thinnest COSC chronometer. This milestone reflects a rigorous process, underscored by a commitment to reevaluate, and transcend the conventions of traditional high watchmaking, propelling venerable craftsmanship into a contemporary context. The outcome is notable: the unparalleled design of watch becomes evident upon first glance, prompting reflection on the innovation behind its creation. How is this even possible? The journey to this record was formidable, beginning with the task of reconciling extreme slimness with robustness. Creating the world's thinnest mechanical watch isn't possible by building solely on existing concepts. It requires a paradigm shift, starting anew from the ground up. This is precisely what Bvigari accomplished with the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra and its remarkable thickness of only 1.80 mm in 2022. Emboldened by this achievement and convinced the limits had not been reached, Bvlgari's R&D department, in collaboration with Concepto (experts in complex mechanisms), decided to push the envelope further still. Like a sprinter achieving a new personal best, each fraction of improvement demanded exponential effort. Surpassing already historic achievements is a testament to the power of innovation, determination and the ability to question established norms. Given that the limits of movement slimness had already been reached with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, achieving an even slimmer profile for the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC involved a rework of the case by optimizing the sapphire crystal. Through patient, meticulous incremental steps, the engineers were able to shave off that critical tenth of a millimeter - and establish a new world record. In terms of the overall structure, the case back serves as the mainplate, upon which the 170 components of the manually wound BVL180 manufacture caliber are assembled. These components are selected using 1/10-micron optical measuring systems, so as to be able to select the parts that are closest to the perfect dimension, in order to exceed the precision of production resources. This COSC-certified mechanical movement introduces another layer of complexity and marks a first for the Ultra line. The challenge of ensuring adequate rigidity for a watch measuring 40 mm in diameter and just 1.70 mm thick was met by crafting case back/mainplate from particularly dense, hard and ultra-resistant tungsten carbide. Moreover, to maximize the use of the watch's surface area, the hour and minute dials, the large barrel - with a 50-hour power reserve - and the escapement cleverly play with the circular geometry of the bezel opening, adjusting it ever so slightly. An exceptional watch needs an exceptional case: with the case dedicated to the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, Bulgari reinvents the experience of setting and winding its watch. If you don't want to use traditional methods, you can place your watch in the dedicated case, equipped with a digital display. The desired time is then programmed, and the adjustment cycle launched at the touch of a button. In a matter of seconds, the watch is perfectly adjusted and wound with impeccable precision. It's like having a watchmaker at home. As a hallmark of its era, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (104081), a new milestone in the history of watchmaking, is being introduced in limited series of 20 pieces. #wherethewatchesarethestars$

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BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (Only 1,70 mm thick!!) presented at Watches and Wonders 2024.

April 8, 2024 11:00 am

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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel. Aqua Blue Fumé Dial. The Saga Continues.

November 21, 2023 4:52 pm

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BVLGARI & Watches. It all started in 1919! The breathtaking story told by CEO Jean-Christophe Babin.

October 29, 2023 10:28 am