Hanhart: 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1

Cool is Back

By: Roger Ruegger

“I’m not sure whether I’m an actor who races or a racer who acts.” – Stephen McQueen (March 24, 1930 – November 7, 1980), nicknamed the “King of Cool”, used the alias “Harvey Mushman” when participating in motor races. In 1964, for example, he rode for the US team at the ISDT (International Six Days Enduro, formerly known as the International Six Days Trial), and later also competed in the Baja 1000. At races and off screen, McQueen was often shown wearing a Hanhart 417 ES.

With the first official Steve McQueen edition, Hanhart is paying tribute to the special connection between the German watchmaker and the American cinematic legend: the 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is limited to 300 pieces worldwide. Just like the historic original, the reedition features a 39-mm stainless steel case. In addition, McQueen’s signature can be found on the dial, a nod to the “King of Cool” on the caseback.

Like McQueen’s own 417 ES, the chronograph comes with a cuff strap, here in Shell Cordovan. The set also contains a booklet, a numbered plaque, red nail polish as a nod to the legend of the red pusher (which is coated in red HyCeram here), and a certification card modeled after McQueen’s 1964 racing license, signed by his grandchildren Chase and Madison McQueen.

In 1956, McQueen had married the dancer and actress Neile Adams, together they had two children, Terry and Chad. Like his father, Chad became an actor and racing driver, and founded McQueen Racing in 2010. Since Chad’s death in 2024, his children Chase and Madison have continued to run the company and uphold their grandfather’s legacy. Chase and Madison also helped shape the edition: they proposed showing their grandfather’s signature on the dial and approved its use. They were also involved in designing the limited-edition card (which they’ve both signed).

The 417 ES was created in the mid-1950s as a pilot’s chronograph for the German Bundeswehr. As on the historical model, the abbreviation ES stands for “Edelstahl”, German for stainless steel. The 39-mm stainless steel case of the reedition has the same proportions, but despite having been upgraded with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is just 13.3 mm thick (11.55 mm without). The hands and numerals are coated with Super-LumiNova in Light Old Radium, the dial is matte black. The fluted, bidirectional rotating bezel and the pusher at 4 o’clock are come with red accents.

Movement is the hand-wound caliber AMT5100 M with flyback function. It features hacking seconds and a power reserve of at least 58 hours and can be seen thanks to the use of a transparent caseback (obviously, the wide leather cuff has to be removed first). Every movement is tested and regulated in six positions at Hanhart in Gütenbach, the case itself is water resistant to 100 m.

Steve McQueen wore his 417 ES on a dark brown cuff strap, which means the strap, or more precisely the cuff is underneath the case and covers the caseback. For the reedition, Hanhart went with Shell Cordovan supplied by the Italian tannery Comipel. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic (it is obtained from a dense fibrous layer) and is traditionally tanned.