The Evolution of Formex

By: Roger Ruegger

The latest release of the independent Swiss watchmaker merges a state-of-the-art Manufacture micro-rotor movement with a seamless case and integrated bracelet design.

It’s been almost ten years since Raphaël Granito took over Swiss watch brand Formex. Ten years, during which collectors and enthusiasts around the world saw an ambitious and client-centric vision quickly taking shape. First with distinctive designs, smart functional solutions and the introduction of innovative materials at competitive prices.

Formex FX01

The new 40-mm Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer also marks the debut of the FX01 micro-rotor movement, co-developed with Horage and housed in an ultra-thin titanium case (Grade 5) with an integrated bracelet, just 78 grams light, and only 6.9 mm thick. The exclusive 100-piece founders edition of the Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer comes with three exclusive dial colors, “Denso Blue” (Ref. 0513.1.5033), “Selva Green” (Ref. 0513.1.5103) and “Ardesia Grey” (Ref. 0513.1.5133).

Granito: “As a small independent watch brand, you simply cannot dream of re-inventing the ultra-thin mechanical wristwatch without having the right movement in the first place.” While Granito has been successfully working with well-known base calibers and suppliers in the past, none of them had decided to invest in the creation of a high-performance micro-rotor movement, which is historically the only way to reduce an automatic movement’s thickness. “Needless to say, there are several highly desirable micro-rotor calibers in the haute horlogerie segment of our industry, a few of them even available to outside brands, but we wanted to remain in the much more competitive environment that we are known for. More importantly, we needed to make sure that a reduction of the caliber’s thickness would not require compromising on performance or comfort, which automatically excluded traditional manual-wound movements, for example.” In the end, Formex found the perfect solution almost next door with Horage: In 2009, Andreas Felsl and his wife Tzuyu Huang started the process of designing and engineering an in-house watch movement from scratch, which is “among the most difficult of watchmaking ventures”, and that statement didn’t even include a micro-rotor architecture. Felsl: “It takes anywhere from 7 to 10 years to go from concept to production models.” With a thickness of only 2.9 mm, the FX01 is not only an exceptionally thin, but also highly efficient modern Swiss Made caliber that combines chronometric precision (each movement is tested individually by the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Authority), a long power reserve, anti-magnetic characteristics, and contemporary movement architecture with the typical Formex approach to finishing and engineering.

The founders edition of the Formex Aria Manufacture Chronometer is a limited production of 100 pieces in 2026, priced at CHF 5,900 each (EUR 7,600, $7,900). During the pre-order phase (starting end of May 2026), customers are able to freely choose their preferred dial color, and once the pre-order phase closes, each colorway is going to be produced according to the number of watches that were pre-ordered, obviously not surpassing the 100 pieces in total. Delivery of the individually numbered watches is scheduled for September 2026.

Specs

Ref.: 0513.1.5033 Denso Blue; 0513.1.5103 Selva Green; Ref. 0513.1.5133 Ardesia Grey
Dimensions: ⌀ 40 mm; 6.9 mm height, 19 mm lug width, 45.45 mm lug-to-lug
Case: titanium (Grade 5)
Water Resistance: 30 m
Movement: FX01 with 72 hours of power reserve
Strap: titanium with folding clasp (with fine-adjustment)
Warranty: 36 months
Price: CHF 5,900 / EUR 7,600 / $7,900

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