By: Roger Ruegger
Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus and the 30th anniversary of the Annual Calendar complication in 2026, the novelties from Patek Philippe were obviously destined to take center stage at this year’s Watches and Wonders (April 14 to 20). Outside the show, Patek Philippe unveiled its new Rare Handcrafts collection consisting of 65 exceptional creations – 23 dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 32 wristwatches: “Patek Philippe is dedicated to preserving all the Rare Handcrafts that have been used to decorate timepieces for more than four centuries.”
Until May 9th, Patek Philippe is displaying the 2026 collection at the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva. This exhibition is the only opportunity to admire unique pieces and limited editions before the are delivered to private collections around the world.
Here’s what to expect:
The 38-mm Calatrava Ref. 5177J-001 “Matador” is a limited edition of twenty watches in yellow gold featuring the matador’s traje de luces or “suit of lights”. The engraver began by chasing the top layer of the dial to produce a silky texture that would form the backdrop. He then modeled the decorative elements representing the embroidery using a dry-point needle to etch fine lines in the metal. An onglette graver reproduced the stitching at the center of the decor. The bezel is adorned with the Calatrava’s typical Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern, the hands are skeletonized. Movement is the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. CHF 115,000
The Elipse “Blue Tartan” (Ref. 5738/50G-045) is a limited edition of ten watches. The dial was first hand-guilloched with 2 motifs oriented in 4 different directions, using a straight-line engine lathe. The enameller also showcased the technique of flinqué enameling, whereby the crossing horizontal and vertical lines typical of tartan, which required about 45 cm of gold wire (~0.4 g), remain visible beneath the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decoration. To give the impression of folds in the fabric, the enameller created a shadow effect, requiring translucent enamels in 8 colors. Each dial underwent 15 firings at a temperature of 800°C. The white-gold case contains a solid case back, the hours and minutes are displayed by cheveu-style hands, stamped in white gold. This watch houses a caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement. CHF 130,000
The 42-mm Calatrava Ref. 5278/50R-011 “Electric Guitar” is a limited edition of ten watches, in rose gold with a dial in wood marquetry. The marquetry maker succeeded in reproducing the chords, the vibrato, the pickguard and even the name “Patek Philippe” reflected on its flanks. To achieve this, he cut out and assembled 336 tiny veneer parts and 18 even smaller inlays, together representing 17 species of wood of different colors, textures and veining, some of them directly relevant to the world of the guitar. This watch is powered by a caliber R 27 self-winding movement with minute repeater chiming on “cathedral” gongs. The architecture of this Grand Complication movement and the finishing touches can be seen through a sapphire crystal back (interchangeable with a solid back in rose gold). CHF 560,000
The Ref. 992/173J-001 “Dandelion” is a unique piece in yellow gold. It features a caseback which was first adorned with hand-executed guilloché work in a sunburst motif. The enameller then depicted the heart of the dandelion, using opaque and transparent enamels in 10 colors, before refining his picture with miniature painting on enamel. Gold spangles called paillons, embedded in flux, a transparent enamel, illuminate the tiny seeds. This enamelwork required 25 firings at a temperature of 800°C. This pocket watch is delivered with a stand in yellow gold representing two plumed dandelion seeds, sparkling with 88 diamonds (3.21 cts). The stand’s oval base in verdite is set with a Pakistani emerald cabochon (0.35 ct). This piece is also accompanied by a chain in yellow gold decorated with two ornaments in verdite and set with 10 diamonds (0.1 ct). This piece houses the caliber 17’’’ LEP PS manually wound movement with small seconds. CHF 580,000
The exhibition on Rue du Rhône 41, 1204 Genève is free (upon registration), more here: Link
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