By: Roger Ruegger
The new Oris Star Edition (Ref. 733 7813 4151-07 5 17 02) is not only a faithful revival of a historically significant watch in the history of the Swiss watch brand, it is also proof, that a timeless design, a solid mechanical movement and great overall build quality and finish don’t have to break the bank in 2026.
The original Oris Star of 1966 was an important watch for Oris: “Not only did it mark the beginning of a new mechanical era for the company, it also signaled changing tastes – and the democratization of luxury. In the fashionably liberated mid1960s, elegance no longer meant watches had to be round and gold; those sober, rigid standards were fading away. Instead, the barrel shaped, modernist Star captured the shift to a new elegance. It was space-age in looks, too, reflecting the pioneering spirit of the time.”
For decades, Oris, like many other Swiss watch brands, had been subject to the Swiss Watch Statute (“statut de l’horlogerie”), introduced on March 12 in 1934 to prevent companies battling for survival during The Great Depression (1929 to 1939) from, for example, exporting parts to other companies, undercutting prices, and potentially damaging the overall reputation of Swiss Made watches. One of the unintended consequences of heavily regulating the industry, however, was that it would also effectively prohibit Swiss watch companies from innovating without prior authorization, and basically create a cartel. Oris, for example, was forced to continue working with less accurate pin-lever movements, while its competitors had already opted for more accurate lever escapements. In 1956, the then high-volume watchmaker decided to hire a lawyer and tasked him to look into options to preventing the statute from being renewed. Dr Rolf Portmann would fight the “Swiss Watch Cartel” for a decade. In 1965, he succeeded, and the law was scrapped. Only a year later, Oris was able to introduce the Oris Star, the brand’s first watch with in-house lever escapement movement. In 1982, Dr Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog would stage a management buyout, and Portmann remains Honorary Chairman at Oris.
In short, this story is as relevant as ever: the new Oris Star Edition is introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, marking a stark contrast to the often highly complicated pieces on display at the trade show. Visually, it is faithful to the original. The 35.00 mm case is barrel-shaped (and wears larger than anticipated), the brushed dial is decorated with twin-baton hour markers and square-tipped hands; the words “Star”, “Automatic” and “26 Jewels” have been added to the dial; there’s an asymmetrical date window at 3 o’clock; and the finishing touch is a plexi crystal. Like the original, it’s sold on a black leather strap. Inside the stainless steel case is the Oris Calibre 733, a Swiss Made automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve (based on the Sellita SW 200-1). The caseback is engraved with the 1960s Oris shield crest. The Star Edition is a non-limited re-edition and is expected to be available in stores in May.
Ref.: 733 7813 4151-07 5 17 02
Dimensions: ⌀ 35 mm
Case: stainless steel
Water Resistance: 50 m
Movement: Oris 733 with 41 hours of power reserve
Strap: black leather strap with pin buckle
Warranty: 24 months
Price: CHF 1,800
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