By: Roger Ruegger
Among the many novelties from Chopard is the L.U.C Strike One Titanium (Ref. 168627-3003). As its name suggests, the 40-mm watch features a Grade 5 titanium case, “uniting refined aesthetics with the crystalline acoustic purity delivered by Chopard’s patented monobloc sapphire gong system.” Despite the chiming complication inside, the watch maintains a slim 9.86-mm profile.
The dial is crafted from 18 carat ethical gold and features a hand guilloché honeycomb motif honoring Louis Ulysse Chopard (May 4, 1836 – January 30, 1915) who adopted the symbolism of the bee and its hive early in the Maison’s history as a symbol of a collaboration. At 12 o’clock, a small disc indicates the chiming status – white when active, ruthenium when silenced – while an aperture between 12 and 1 reveals the hammer that strikes the passing hours. A hand stitched anthracite alligator strap complements the titanium case and dial tones while allowing the central hue to stand out.
Typical for Chopard, the L.U.C 96.32 L is a certified chronometer and meets the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève, it features a micro rotor in engraved 22 carat ethical gold, twin stacked barrels (Chopard Twin Technology), a swan’s neck regulator, and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève. Its 65-hour power reserve remains available even when the chiming mechanism is active.
The movement was first introduced in 2022 within the “Sound of Eternity” trilogy. It emits a single note each time the minute hand reaches 12. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard’s Co-President: “Chiming watches embody one of the most demanding expressions of Haute Horlogerie. At Chopard, we have spent years refining this craft, developing patented solutions that allow our watches to chime with clarity and emotion. The new L.U.C Strike One Titanium is the latest proof of our mastery: a contemporary case, a signature savoir faire, and a sound that expresses the very soul of our Manufacture.”
Chopard also introduces a continuation model (Ref. 168860-3005) of the original L.U.C 1860 to honor the 30th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. Scheufele: “The L.U.C 1860 is the most emblematic watch in the L.U.C collection. It marks the beginning of our journey into the heart of fine watchmaking — a path that has sometimes been challenging yet full of discoveries. This timepiece has become a classic, just as I had imagined it 30 years ago”.
Like its predecessor, this new version features a 36.5-mm case in Lucent Steel and an “Areuse Blue” dial – a color inspired by the Areuse River that flows near the Chopard manufacture in the Val-de-Travers region. The 18-carat white gold dial is hand guilloché with a sunburst pattern, using a vintage guilloché lathe. The watch is water resistant to 30 m and comes with a grey grained calfskin strap.
Movement ist the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, a direct evolution of the first movement conceived and produced by Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in 1996. At just 3.30 mm thin, this self winding movement incorporates a 22 carat gold micro rotor that efficiently winds two stacked barrels, thanks to Chopard Twin technology, providing a 65-hour power reserve. The calibre is Chronometer certified (COSC) for precision and includes a stop seconds function and a swan’s neck regulator for fine adjustment. Each component is finished by hand, with polished, beveled and decorated surfaces in line with Poinçon de Genève standards.
Another noteworthy model that is marking the 30th anniversary: the new ultra thin L.U.C XPS in Lucent Steel with “Prussian Blue” dial (Ref. 168629-3002). The 40-mm case has a thickness of 7.2 mm and offers a water resistance of 30 m, movement is the L.U.C 96.12‑L with micro-rotor and 65-hour power reserve. The dial adopts a sector style construction inspired by 1930s Art Deco and Bauhaus movements.
Shifting between deep shadows and bright highlights, the dial is adorned with a sunburst satin finish that reveals all the richness of “Prussian Blue”. Discovered by accident in the 17th century by a Berlin color merchant (the city then being the capital of Prussia), this hue pays tribute to the unique past of the Canton of Neuchâtel, and home of Chopard in Fleurier: Between 1707 and 1857, this territory was under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Prussia while simultaneously becoming a Swiss canton in 1815 — a status unique in Europe. It was during those years that this color spread throughout the region.
Chopard’s sporty Alpine Eagle collection gets a new 41-mm version in Lucent Steel with “Rhone Blue” dial (Ref. 298600-3035). The color is “reminiscent of one of the most iconic rivers of the Alpine massif: the Rhone. This emblematic river begins its journey in natural blue tones in the Swiss eponymous glacier located in the heart of the canton of Valais – an environment that is home to several eagle species – before feeding the waters of Lake Geneva and eventually flowing into the Mediterranean Sea.” The 41 mm version houses the COSC-certified Chopard 01.01 C caliber, offering a 60-hour power reserve, the case is water resistant to 100 m and 9.75 mm thick.
Made with a recycling rate of 80%, Chopard’s Lucent Steel results from a remelting process that produces a material with brilliance comparable to gold and hypoallergenic properties similar to surgical steel. On top, its hardness makes it particularly resistant to abrasion, according to Chopard.
Building on the success of the first ultra thin Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, Chopard presents a new model with a diameter of 41 mm and a thickness of 8 mm, and a redesigned bracelet (the first five links display a more pronounced taper, while the narrower links near the clasp further highlight the watch’s overall thinness, the folding clasp comes with a new adjustment system). The dial color for the stainless steel version is named “Mountain Glow” (Ref. 298623-3003): “a subtle champagne shade evoking the warm radiance of the Alps as their peaks catch the sun’s final rays at sunset.” Like the L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel, it is is powered by the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L.
Chopard is also introducing the Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Gold (Ref. 295396-5001) in 18 carat ethical rose gold and a brown “Shades of Wood” gradient dial. The green Alpine Eagle 41 AM version (Ref. 298600-3038) is powered by the Chopard 01.01 C caliber.
The launch of the Alpine Eagle collection in 2019 was accompanied by the creation of an eponymous Foundation. It was established by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, along with several specialists and lovers of the Alps. Its motto is “Preserving the Alps”, and its projects aim to raise awareness, mobilise support, and take action on behalf of the entire Alpine region and the life it shelters. These initiatives also include a plan to reintroduce the white tailed eagle around Lake Geneva, as well as a program to protect the golden eagle in the Swiss Alps. Chopard directly contributes to the funding of the Foundation by donating a portion of the profits from the sales of some Alpine Eagle creations.
The Mille Miglia Classic Patina (Ref. 168619-3010) features “a case deliberately weathered to evoke the patina of historic racing cars.” For this, Chopard combined Lucent Steel with DLC (diamond like carbon coating) that underwent a tribofinishing process “subtly abrading the surface using vibrating ceramic pieces.” As a tribute to its longstanding partnership with the Mille Miglia, this new chronograph is issued in an exclusive 100 piece limited edition.
In addition, the watch is equipped with a copper colored circular satin finished dial. Behind a smoked sapphire exhibition caseback beats a mechanical self winding chronograph movement (based on the modular ETA A32.211/2894-2) with a 54-hour power reserve, water resistance is 50 m.
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