By: Maryna Steger
For the first time, WatchAdvisor had the pleasure of speaking with Pascal Narbeburu, Timepieces Director at Van Cleef & Arpels. Known for his creative leadership and passion for storytelling through mechanical masterpieces, Pascal and his team play a pivotal role in shaping the Maison’s horological identity. Our conversation flowed effortlessly – likely because Pascal is not only an innovator but also genuinely warm and humorous.
Pascal, could you tell us a bit about yourself and how your journey at Van Cleef & Arpels began?
I started my career in the automotive industry, leading efficiency operations and safeguarding margins. I gained a solid experience and moved into the watch industry at a time of significant technological transformation. It was an exciting period, and I felt incredibly fortunate to join Van Cleef & Arpels at that moment.
What drew you to Van Cleef & Arpels?
After working across various maisons and systems, I desired more meaning behind the work – something with a soul. At Van Cleef & Arpels, I rediscovered storytelling. Everything begins with a narrative here. The stories challenge us to innovate, to push boundaries. That’s what energizes me everyday. The beauty of working at Van Cleef & Arpels is the freedom of imagination. Here, “the sky has no limit” isn’t just a phrase – it’s a mindset.
Each year, Van Cleef & Arpels captures hearts with poetic complications. What can collectors look forward to this season?
This year, we have enriched the “Pont des Amoureux” collection to represent love throughout the day – dawn, morning, dusk and moonlight.We have also introduced the “Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate”, inspired by the festive spirit of French “guinguettes” which are open-air dance café that bring joy and romance to life. To create this atmosphere, we developed 60 unique enamel colours! These subtle shades help us tell the story with emotional precision. We don’t just match colours – we compose with them. That’s why developing them took nearly two years and almost 5 years total for the watch.
Nicolas Bos (CEO, Richemont; former President and CEO Van Cleef & Arpels) has always spoken passionately about the Planétarium timepieces. Could you tell us more about the new Planétarium automaton, and what role do automata play in VCA’s horological story?
Extraordinary objects are part of our DNA. Since 1906 we have explored creative expressions beyond traditional watchmaking. Our journey with automata began earnestly in 2017 with a grand automaton to preserve and showcase our métiers d’art. That momentum led to the 2020 debut of two major automata: a bird fountain and the Planétarium.
We have established a small workshop in Sainte-Croix dedicated to these creations. We work closely with François Junod, a master of automata, and are building a team to craft these masterpieces entirely in-house.
That passion and precision really come through in your work…
Thank you. We follow our own path, driven by heritage and integrity. Since 2006, we have launched 45 complications. Some watches we still sale a decade later – because like a great book, a VCA timepiece doesn’t age. Its story remains timeless and emotionally resonant.
Walk us through the creative process – how do stories transform into mechanical art?
It begins with a collaborative session between different teams including design studio and R&D teams. We brainstorm within our four creative universes: love, nature, astronomy, and fairies and ballerinas. From dozens of concepts, we refine a few and present them to the CEO. Once selected, the design studio interprets the stories visually.
But at this stage, we still don’t know how to build the timepieces! So, we work in tandem – engineers and artisans collaborating to invent new mechanisms that didn’t previously exist. Every millimetre matters, and every part must serve both technical and artistic goals. Monthly, we meet with the CEO to align on the smallest details, e.g. even the tilt of a fairy’s head!
How do you see Van Cleef & Arpels’ watchmaking endeavours evolving in the future?
Our development cycles are long. Right now, we are designing timepieces for 2030. Balancing technological innovation with handcraftsmanship is our biggest challenge – and priority. That is why we have created internal schools for engraving and enamelling. We train apprentices and continually evolve our techniques to keep our métiers d’art alive.
Ultimately, my role is to ensure people come to work with a smile in a challenging environment. That spirit translates into the soul of every piece. When someone wears a Van Cleef & Arpels watch, I want them to feel that joy and emotion.
Pascal, thank you for sucha passionate and personal look behind the scenes. It’s been a pleasure.
Thank you – it’s been my pleasure as well.
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