By: Alexander Linz
WatchAdvisor had a privilege to sit down with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, to discuss the brand’s evolution, its commitment to craftsmanship, and the exciting future ahead for both Chopard L.U.C and Ferdinand Berthoud.
Mastering the Art of Watchmaking
Chopard has always been a brand that embraces progress, and its latest step in that journey is the integration of in-house dial manufacturing. The dial, often referred to as the “face of the watch,” is one of the most intricate components in watchmaking. With this new addition to Chopard’s capabilities, the brand ensures full control over the quality and aesthetics of its timepieces.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele highlights the meticulous nature of dial production: “There is no room for trial and error—one mistake, and the dial is gone.” This attention to precision has been at the core of Chopard’s philosophy for decades.
The Journey of Chopard L.U.C: From Vision to Maturity
Reflecting on the origins of Chopard L.U.C in 1996, Mr. Scheufele describes it as a project that started from scratch at a time when few people believed in long-term independent watchmaking. Today, L.U.C has evolved into a mature, world-renowned manufacture. The demand for L.U.C watches has soared, with certain models, such as the 1860 in stainless steel with a salmon-coloured dial, experiencing an 18-month waiting period due to overwhelming interest.
As for the future, Mr. Scheufele remains ambitious: “There is still much to explore in terms of complications, innovations, and combinations of movements.” With a solid foundation in chronometer-certified, micro-rotor, and double-barrel movements, Chopard continues to push the boundaries of elegance and technical prowess.
The Evolution of Watch Trends: Smaller and Thinner
One of the key takeaways from our conversation is the growing trend toward smaller and thinner watches. Chopard L.U.C movements, initially designed with this principle in mind, now seem ahead of their time. Their slim construction and micro-rotor technology perfectly align with today’s demand for elegant, understated timepieces.
Ferdinand Berthoud: Reviving a Legendary Name
Beyond L.U.C, Mr. Scheufele has also spearheaded the revival of Ferdinand Berthoud, a name synonymous with precision and navigation chronometers dating back to the 18th century. With an unwavering commitment to heritage and craftsmanship, the brand now produces only 60-70 watches per year, each handcrafted by a small team of watchmakers and artisans.
The challenge of finding the right people for such a demanding level of craftsmanship is immense. Scheufele explains: “We need the best of the best of the best. Only those with exceptional skill can work on Ferdinand Berthoud pieces.” The brand has set incredibly high standards to live up to the legendary reputation of Berthoud himself.
The Future of Berthoud: A Watch You Can Wear Both Ways?
An intriguing idea has emerged from discussions with Berthoud collectors — why not design a watch that can be worn both ways to showcase its breathtaking movement? Mr. Scheufele acknowledges the idea’s appeal, noting that connoisseurs appreciate quiet luxury. While no concrete plans have been confirmed, it’s clear that Berthoud is a brand where innovation and tradition intertwine seamlessly.
The Role of Creativity in the Watch Industry
When asked about creativity in the watch industry, Mr. Scheufele offers an optimistic perspective: “If you look at independent watchmakers, creativity is thriving. Some well-established brands may not venture far outside their comfort zone, but independents are truly pushing the envelope.”
His philosophy is clear: passion fuels innovation. It is this very passion that has driven Chopard, L.U.C, and Ferdinand Berthoud to their respective positions at the pinnacle of Haute Horlogerie.
Final Thoughts: The Marathon of Watchmaking
As our conversation comes to a close, Mr. Scheufele reminds us of a lesson imparted by legendary Swiss retailer Teddy Beyer: “Watchmaking is a marathon, not a sprint.” This sentiment encapsulates Chopard’s philosophy — constant evolution, relentless pursuit of excellence, and a deep respect for tradition.
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